Sunday, January 19, 2025

Cruising the Danube River

            Thursday, 5 Sep 2024 – Breakfast was early (7:00) because we had morning excursions; ours starting at 8:30 AM.  Originally, Sally had signed us for the Jewish walking tour of Regensburg, but found out there was a “leisure” walking group of Regensburg, which should have been easier for us.  As we left the ship, there was no bus in sight.  We had to walk quite a distance on a path that doubled back before we came close to any buildings.  At first, we thought we were walking to a bus, but NO BUS!  Our guide, Suzanne, spoke very good English and gave us a lot of history. That part of the day was great.  We walked across the Old Stone Bridge, constructed in the 12th century, a “masterpiece of medieval engineering with its 16 arches” and on to St. Peter’s Cathedral, which “is considered Bavaria’s best Gothic architectural work.”  Our tour ended there, at the Old Town’s Neupfarrplatz square, which is a “cross section of history – having served as an ancient Roman gathering place, a thriving Jewish quarter, a bustling marketplace and the site of Nazi book burnings.”  We stopped at a Stube (bar/café) there with another couple (Sandy & Richard) and Clarence, who had come on the outing without his wife Carol.  Jesse had pop, and Sally had a latte.  Then we walked with Clarence back to the ship.  It had moved to be closer to the cathedral, but was still pretty far.  If Sally had known how much we would have to walk (and with no bus!), she wouldn’t have taken this tour!  On the other hand, the old streets were narrow, and vehicles (especially busses) didn’t drive here.  When we reached pier 6, our ship was “double parked,”, so that we had to walk through another Viking ship to get onto ours.  Sally was exhausted and very sweaty, so she took a shower, while Jesse went to have a light lunch. 

Friday, 6 Sep 2024 – After breakfast, Jesse went on our excursion (9:15, Walking Tour of Passau, our ship’s last stop in Germany).  Sally asked if this tour would be bussed at all, and when told “no,” she let Jesse go without her.  (Yesterday was just too exhausting!)  Soon after he left, Sally went back to sleep.

Jesse was with the “Leisure” group for the walking tour of Passau.  Our tour guide was a young woman named Christina.  We followed Christina through the streets of Passau while taking in the sights.  Passau is one of Bavaria’s oldest cities and was founded by the Celts more than 2,000 years ago.  Three rivers converge here: the blue Danube, the green Inn, and the black Ilz.  The second worst flood in the history of Passau happened in 2013, more than 500 years after its worst flood.  Christina pointed out water marks that showed the level of flooding for the various floods.  We stopped for a rest break near Hotel Wilder Mann, a modernized 5-story hotel, housed in a building dating back to 1512.  The highlight of the tour was a visit to St. Stephen’s Cathedral, “located on the highest point of the city’s Old Town.  Over the centuries, many churches have been built and rebuilt on the site, which itself was nearly destroyed by the 1662 fire that swept through Passau.  With only its late Gothic eastern façade left standing, St. Stephen’s was rebuilt between 1668 and 1693 by architect Carlo Lurago…  In addition to its famous pipe organ, the largest in the world outside the United States, the cathedra boasts eight enormous bells weighing up to 16,645 lbs.”  The cathedral was undergoing renovation at the time of our tour, but it was magnificent just the same.

After the tour, Christina gave us directions for our return to the ship.  No one else seemed to be returning at the time, so Jesse attempted to make his way back on his own, and of course, got lost!  At one point, he saw Carol who gave him additional directions, which he should have followed but didn’t.  He asked Carol, “Shouldn’t I be able to get back following this street?”  Carol responded, “Probably.”  After walking quite a distance, Jesse found himself in a residential area.  A man saw his confusion and pointed towards the direction to the ship.  He arrived back in the cabin shortly thereafter at about 11:00 AM!

            Shortly after that, Jesse wanted to go for lunch.  Sally decided to go also, but mostly to drink cranberry juice and cappuccino.  (She also got tomato soup.)  We sat with Keith & Jean (we had sat with them at dinner yesterday, too).  Keith had spent 2.5 years in Stuttgart, and she taught in the early grades.  Then by 1:30, Sally wanted to go out for a short walk (maybe 1/3-mile total) and Jesse kindly went with her.  Sally needed (badly) to stop at a toilet and noticed a public one nearby as we had walked from the ship, so we stopped there before reboarding the ship.  (Public toilets – those are something new in Germany!)  Today, our ship was parked next to the cement wall (by our cabin window), with no scenery at all, which was a big reason for Sally’s wanting to get out, plus she needed to walk!  And the other side was next to another ship for much of the time.  For dinner, we sat with two other couples for about the third night; they are from Philadelphia and have been neighbors for 50 years.  Their names are Jane & Will, and John & Sandy.  Will is 86 (born in 1937) and his birthday is 22 October, only eight days after Sally’s!  Tonight, we were all served a plate of identical German food, and then chose dessert from a table.  Sally wasn’t very hungry so she didn’t eat much.

            Saturday, 7 Sep 2024 – Sally felt a lack of sleep when she had to get up for breakfast, and would have liked to stay in bed!  But we ate so that we could take a walk at the Melk Abbey.  We had to walk some distance to get up to a bus stop.  After that, the walk was pretty good.  We soon had a guide, who took us through the abbey, room by room.  We weren’t allowed to take photos inside the Abbey, but Jesse purchased a tour book (with photos) afterwards.  It is Benedictine and very ornate, “possibly” the most famous abbey in Austria.  Dramatically situated on an outcrop rising above the Danube, “it stands resplendent in a golden hue, crowned by towers.”  The views from the abbey are sensational.  Built between 1702 and 1736, the abbey was originally a royal palace with ceremonial courts, guest apartments, grand halls and a library.  In the 11th century, Leopold II of Bebenberg presented the palace to the Benedictine monks, who turned it into a fortified abbey.  The highlight of the abbey is the Stiftskirche, or “Abbey Church.”  It has twin towers and its “jaw-dropping interior is a baroque extravaganza, featuring magnificent frescos.”  Its library contains about 80,000 medieval manuscripts.  The monastic community of Melk is more than 900 years old, and black-robed Benedictine monks still stroll amid the marble sculptures and frescoed walls.  The monastery school has more than 700 students.  (Our female guide was one.)  Upon leaving the abbey, we (and most other visitors) rode an elevator instead of climbing stairs up about four floors high!  The busses were ready and waiting for us, so we didn’t walk back very far to the ship.  We took showers right away before going to lunch – although the dining room was very full already when we got there.  We sat in the back with people we hadn’t met, Laura & Tim from Appleton, WI.  We talked about genealogy a lot.  Sally ordered green salad, cranberry juice and cappuccino.  After returning to our cabin, Sally crawled into bed and “sacked out.”  Our ship stopped again at Krems (which we hadn’t expected).  It was a picturesque little city, as we could see from our cabin, but we didn’t get off.  After dinner at 9:00 we went upstairs to the lounge to a Waltz Show.  Two Vienna ballet soloists performed the traditional Viennese waltz and shared the history of this dance.  Some passengers went up front to learn the basic steps.  When it ended, we were ready to go to bed!

Sunday, 8 Sep 2024 – Jesse got up complaining about how cold it was in our cabin.  (Sally sweats a lot under the heavy comforter on our bed unless the heat is turned down, which then makes him too cold.  It’ll be good to go home to our appropriate covers.)  After breakfast, we got on a bus, parked near the ship exit this time, and headed for a few hours of sightseeing.  Our tour was Panoramic Vienna.  First, the bus drove around in central Vienna.  Since it was Sunday, the streets had little motor traffic, but just lots of walkers and some horse-drawn carriages.  Our guide, Verena, left us in front of St. Stephen’s Church, where Mass was in progress.  After standing there for a few minutes, we went inside the church briefly.  The service (in German) was going on, with very beautiful (and very loud) organ music.  Then we went outside again, and with Sandy, walked back toward the place where the bus would return.  We stopped at the Hard Rock Café, where we ordered cold, fruit-flavored drinks and sat at an outdoor table to consume them, then used the restroom before heading back to the meeting place, where Sandy’s husband Richard was sitting on a bench.  Others soon arrived, too; then the bus came, and we were taken back to the ship.  We walked for a few blocks, but not enough to get sweaty or exhausted.  Soon after returning to the ship, we went for lunch.  Sally intended to have cranberry juice or cappuccino, but instead got beer, a BLT (which wasn’t very good, and we should’ve shared one instead of each ordering one), and a small dessert cake.  Sally felt overly full, but she lay in bed and fell immediately asleep.  Jesse steered us to the dining room after she awoke, though it was an hour earlier than usual.  (A later dinner was also scheduled for those on late tours.)  Anyway, at first the other couples we’ve been sitting with didn’t appear, and we assumed they were eating dinner elsewhere – until suddenly they appeared (after our first course).  They had been confused by the time change.  At the end of our time together, we talked about DNA results, etc.  They are going out tomorrow on an optional all-day excursion to Bratislavia.  We weren’t scheduled for anything, but planned to walk a short distance, making sure we didn’t get lost, maybe finding a drug store.

Monday, 9 Sep 2024 – At breakfast we sat at the same table with the same group as at dinner last evening.  The ship was docked in Vienna for a second day.  When the others left to get ready for a travel day (to Bratislavia, capital of Slovakia), we talked longer with Wayne, a Vietnam veteran who uses two canes and was not going off the ship.  It was a rainy day and very cool.  Although we had considered a walk by ourselves, the weather wasn’t inviting.  Since Jesse had been given some cough drops by Wayne’s wife, Kathy he wasn’t motivated to walk anywhere now.  The first part of the day, we had a ship next to us, so had no scenery from our cabin.  Then later, we had a ship on the other side, between our ship and the plank to shore.  After we left dock, the scenery was nice for a while.  There was a meeting in the lounge for those going on tour tomorrow and/or disembarking.  We were going on tour and only heard the last part of what was said.  Then it was dinner time.  The two couples from Philadelphia that we’ve been sitting with are going out tomorrow and also extending their stay on the ship.  But Morris & Anna were getting off.  (We hadn’t seen them much recently.  They were recovering from bad colds and are trying to keep from spreading their germs!  They live in Melbourne, Australia, but we’d like to have their e-mail address – if we would see them before they leave the ship.)

Tuesday, 10 Sep 2024 – At breakfast, much to our pleasure, Morris & Anna joined us.  We were docked in Budapest, Hungary, and went out to bus 37B before 9:20 AM.  (It left at 9:30, but was half full when we got in!)   Today's tour was Panoramic Budapest.  Our tour guide was Agnes.  The weather was cloudy today, though partly sunny later.  It was 74⁰F, cooler than most days; Sally didn’t get very sweaty today.  Prior to 1873, Buda and Pest were separate cities on opposite side of the Danube River.  First, the bus drove around in the Pest area on the east side of the Danube, which was the not-so-rich part of the two cities.  Sally was very surprised to see so much beautiful Gothic-style architecture.  (Their WW II damage was great.)  We stopped at The Church of Our Lady of Buda Cathedral and walked through it, sitting a couple of times in pews.  It was gorgeous inside as well as out.  Then the bus took us around the Buda side of the river.  We saw some pretty dolls (in a shop window) with native costumes, and Jesse bought one for his sister, Verna.  We walked about the average amount today, but stopped sometimes to rest, so we didn’t get terribly tired.  The guide told us about Hungarian history, mentioning the date 1956 (Hungarian Revolution), which Saly remember vaguely from when she was in college.  Also, she remembered 1970, when she tutored, a man who wanted English conversation when she was living in Germany.  He was Hungarian, and making trips back to his homeland (Hungary) to blow up bridges, etc.  They didn’t become totally free until 1989, when the “wall” finally was taken down.  There was a debate this evening in Philadelphia between Kamala Harris and Trump, but CNN would be airing it at 3:00 AM on the ship.  We delayed our departure from the dining room table at lunch, while talking with two women about Trump. 

Wednesday, 11 Sep 2024 – In the morning, Jesse said he had listened to the Harris-Trump debate, to Sally’s surprise.  It wasn’t planned; he just happened to wake up at 3:00 AM!  Later, we watched replays of much of the debate on TV, plus questions afterward, so Sally didn’t think she had missed much.  (CNN gave her win by 63% and Trump at 37%.  (Yay, Kamala!)  Suitcases were stacked in the reception area, and the restaurant was pretty empty when we went for breakfast (about 7:30).  Lots of new people have come on the ship.  Our ship was docked at Budapest a second day and there were no scheduled tours, so after breakfast, Sally went back to bed and slept almost till lunch.  At lunch, we sat with two older women from North Ireland (newly boarded).  After that, Sally wanted to go off the ship for a short time because another Viking ship was docked next to us, so our blinds had been closed all day – it felt like she was living in a closet!  We went up some stairs, and we considered walking partway across the bridge.  A couple told us we could ride on the public transportation system (free for people 65+).  But Sally decided not to do either, and Jesse wasn’t very eager to go anywhere – so we went back to our cabin!   At 6:00 we had another safety meeting, followed by dinner.  At dinner, we sat with the couple from Hong Kong (Comey & Beatrix) and Pierre & Isabelle.  (Sally hadn’t met them, but Jesse had eaten lunch with them one day when Sally didn’t go.)

Thursday, 12 Sep 2024 – We went to breakfast somewhat early today and were out at bus D group before 8:30 AM, sitting in the back.  We learned from the desk clerk that “leisure” tour groups would not be available for the remainder of the cruise.  Temperature in central Europe (Hungary) is known to be hot and dry.  Today it started out cloudy, with temp 80⁰F.  However, at first it was 54⁰F, so Sally took her light blue jacket.  Our excursion today was Kalocsa & Puskta.  Our tour guide, Micole, was good.  First stop was the Puszta.  “The Hungarians are an equestrian folk at heart.  The country has a great tradition of horsemanship that began when the nomadic Magyar warriors came thundering across the steppes from Asia on horseback.  In time, their descendants settled on the Great Plain, or Puszta, of Hungary, which resembled the American West….”   We sat on bleachers watching long-horned cattle pulling wagons.  Next were horses, ridden at first individually by men with flowing sleeves and long coats; they popped their whips, performed some tricks (laying their horses down, striking down props with their whips, etc.).  The final feat was a man standing on the backs of horses 9 and 10, behind a team of 4 horses, followed by 4 more horses.  It was quite spectacular, reminiscent of the horses of Vienna.  We used restrooms there and received drinks of water.  (Sally’s legs became very hot, with the sun on her black pants, while sitting on the bleachers, until we left to be in the shade.)  From the horse ranch, the bus took us to St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Kalocsa.  We walked about 900 meters from the bus to the church, where we sat in the pews.  The inside was very ornate, being constructed in the 1700’s on top of two older churches.  We listened for 20 plus minutes to an organ concert of three classical songs (by Bach and others) before leaving to walk back to the bus.  By 12:00 noon the four buses arrived back at the ship.  Everyone walked the same distance today, but it was manageable.  Afterward, we ate breakfast, sitting with the Hong Kong couple, plus two young women from NC (Melonee & Marylay).  Then Sally napped.  Tonight, we sat at the table where we always sat until 9:10, and the two Philadelphia couples joined us – like old times.

Friday, 13 Sep 2024 – Today was a dark, rainy day, and was also the coldest day we have had on this cruise (56⁰F according to the Viking Daily), after being 80⁰F yesterday.  We went early to breakfast (6:30), and then took the shore excursion to Osijek and Vukovar, Croatia.  Our tour guide was Biljana.  First, we walked (in the rain) from the bus to a Catholic Church in Osijek (Church of the Glorious Name of Mary).  The lights were not turned on inside, and the daylight coming through the windows was minimal, so that we could not see very well the beautiful decoration inside the church.  But we were told to be seated, and we listened to a woman play an electronic piano and sing Croation folk music; then she sang “Amen, amen, amen” without her accompaniment.  She is a member of a choir that sings in various locations.  Before getting back on the bus, we all used restrooms in back of the church.  (There were only two stalls in the women’s area, so it was a long line; eventually, we started using the men’s room also.  Sally was the second woman to use the men’s room.)  After that, the bus took us to Vukovar.  There, people in our bus were divided into three groups that went into three separate homes that are licensed as bed and breakfast places.  We went with others in our group into a home, where a woman (holding a small dog) greeted us at the door.  We sat at a long table in her dining room, where we ate three or four types of cakes and drank juice and brandy.  Several people asked questions about her life, and she answered in English.  (She had a heavy accent and spoke from the other end of the room; her speech was impossible for Sally to hear/understand, though she heard the questions.)  Sally was still wondering what caused the war in the 1990’s that left so many ruins and land mines.  (Most have been rebuilt, but not all.)  After reaching the ship, we went for lunch, and sat by our usual dinner friends.  After lunch, Sally napped and Jesse (unintentionally) also slept.  Soon we went to dinner, and sat with our four usual friends from Philadelphia.  We learned a little new about them tonight – Sally mentioned that some of our Sioux Falls neighbors “watch Fox News all day,” and Will chimed in that John & Sandy do also!  Although very close friends, they do not agree on politics!

Saturday, 14 Sep 2024 – Breakfast was early (soon after 7:00), then our shore excursion:  Panoramic Belgrade, Serbia.  Today was another rainy day, more in the morning than later, and even slightly colder than yesterday.  According to our brochure: “Scattered showers, 55⁰F.”  (Sally was glad that she brought her boots and some warm clothes.)  She was also getting a cold – again; her second cold since we’ve been on the ship!  She’d like to have stayed in bed and skipped today’s tour, but she was very interested in seeing Belgrade, Serbia.  Before leaving the ship, we had to pick up our passports at the desk and carry them with us because Serbia isn’t part of the European Union.

Our Viking ship was on the Sava River (near the Danube).  Our bus was Group A.  When we walked up the hill to the busses, we had to pass busses 4, 3, 2, 1, E, D, C, B… until we finally came to bus A!  Sally was tired by the time we sat down near the back of bus A.  Our guide told a lot of interesting history of Belgrade.  From the Viking Daily: “The former capital of the state of Yugoslavia, and today’s Serbian capital, Belgrade is one of the oldest cities in Europe.  Its location at the confluence of the Sava and Danube Rivers and at the intersection of Eastern and Western Europe has long made it a contested region.  Throughout its history, the ‘White City,’ as its Serbian name translates, has been destroyed and rebuilt 20 times.  Fortunately, the wide-reaching citadel remains, housing the Kalemegdan Fortress, Orthodox churches, Turkish baths and green parkland.  Its Cathedral of St. Sava is one of the largest Orthodox buildings in the world.” 

The bus let us out to walk through the wooden fortress with high vaulted doors and old weapons (cannons, etc.) sitting out at the sides.  Then we walked through park land.  Sally was trying to keep up with our group but also sat on her cane seat whenever possible.  It started to become a struggle for her.  It sprinkled rain at times; then one of her hearing aid batteries expired.  She also had trouble keeping her “whisperer” in her ear when she pulled her hood over her ears because of rain, so she did not hear much of what our guide was saying.  Finally, we stopped at a shopping center to use restrooms that were buried in the far corner of the basement.   (Sally sat on her cane seat along the way.)  Then we waited outside at the meeting place.  Our leader was very conscientious in waiting until everyone got there.  Soon a miracle happened: we got on a city bus!!!   Sally was very grateful at that point and was able to relax.

Soon we arrived at the huge Eastern Orthodox church with beautiful frescoes on the walls and domed ceiling.  Sally [JI1] had hoped to sit there in a seat, but she had forgotten that congregations in these churches stand during services!  Studying the paintings, the wall displayed old men with beards reaching the floor. (The Orthodox church here requires the long beard and also marriage – not celibacy!)  From there, we walked next door to a smaller church, where our guide says she goes instead of going to the big one.  Then we got on the bus again, which took us back to the ship.  While standing in the church, Sally felt wet and cold; the cold breeze coming into the church chilled her neck.  (She could feel her cold getting worse!)  She didn’t go right to sleep tonight; she got up and was on her laptop for an hour or so.

            Sunday, 15 Sep 2024 – Today was another rainy day.  Our Viking Daily said “Mostly sunny, 55⁰F.”  However, it was raining when we walked out the door, and it never stopped!  Jesse carried a very large umbrella over both of us from our ship.  Our shore excursion was “Golubac Fortress by foot” from 8:45 to 9:45 AM, and our tour guide was Marco.  We could see the fortress ahead of us on the river, so it wasn’t very far.  However, the stone walk was wet and slippery.  The fortress was originally above the water, but after the river was dammed relatively recently, it is now partly in the water.  We climbed over old wooden boards on the bridge into the fortress.  Inside, we could see round stones and the sling device originally used to shoot the stones at any enemy.  Inside were various items that had been rescued from the original building.  It was a cold castle inside.  A video was also available to watch, but we were soon ready to retrace our steps back to the ship.  When we reached our cabin, we were soaking wet – Sally’s boots, socks, bottom few inches of her jeans, her jacket, and arms of her shirt!  Jesse was similarly soaked, and he was wearing sandals, not boots.  (Sally’s boots obviously seriously leaked as we walked through puddles.)  The weather news on TV said that Storm Boris was making its way across central and eastern Europe after weeks of dryness.  

We had eaten breakfast after 7:00, so we lay around in our cabin until time for lunch (after 12:30).  We sat with Commy & Beatrix and Michael & Linda (from Gary, IN).  Then, it was back to our room, and Sally napped (Jesse unintentionally also). Sally was keeping her cold from being too obvious with DayQuil and NyQuil, with only a few of each left.  Sally’s weight was not going down much (if any) because she usually ate more than she intended, so that the walking exercise was not really doing much good, though she would probably have gained weight if she didn’t walk!   Jesse just enjoyed the cruise and didn’t worry about any temporary weight gain.  Back in the U.S., there was a second assassination attempt on Trump today while he was golfing on his estate.  The news was full of it after that; they caught site of the man who was getting into a vehicle and caught him.

Monday, 16 Sep 2024Although Sally slept okay last night, we lost an hour of sleep, changing to East European Time at midnight.  Sally awoke with a headache that wouldn’t go away, and tried to keep from sneezing during breakfast.  Our Viking Daily said “Partly cloudy, 67 degrees.  It was actually mostly sunny.  We arrived at a small place, Vidin, Bulgaria. The walking excursion was “Belogradchik Rocks & Fortress,” rated as “demanding” (as opposed to “easy”).  They said people could make it easy just by not climbing to higher areas.  Anyway, Sally decided she needed extra rest because she felt like she could be getting sick, but Jesse went on the excursion without her.

The tour started with a bus ride from Vidin to the Belogradchik Rocks, which took a little more than an hour.   Our tour guide was Simona.  Jesse took photos from the bus as it traveled though small towns and country sides.  Along the way, our bus stopped along the road while the driver inspected the bus.  Apparently, it was making a noise that he didn’t like  Upon arrival, Jesse had to walk uphill to a bathroom; after that, he was already tired before doing anything else.   Simona informed us that the company would be sending another bus to return us to the port.

Jesse started his walk toward the fortress.  Just inside the entrance gate, there was a man selling various sculptures that he had created.  They looked very nice, but were a little on the expensive side.  From a distance, Jesse could see the red-hued cliffs and mountains.  “The result of millennia of weathering, river erosion, freezing and countless other factors, these formations are more than Bulgaria’s great natural wonder.”  Reportedly, fantastic figures and profiles emerge when you catch them at just the right angle and silhouettes of people, towers, ships, mushrooms, palaces and animals populate the cliffs.  The Belogradchik Fortress, built by the Ottomans, is within the maze of rock columns and pillars.

Jesse was exhausted by the time he neared the base of the rock formations, and quickly found a bench in the shade.  He decided that a climb to the top of the cliffs was a bridge too far for him.  He conversed with Michael (from North Island, New Zealand) as they watched his wife, Patricia, climb the steps all the way to the top and back down again.  At first, there was a woman sitting with us waiting for her husband to complete the climb.  Michael & Patricia have been raising their grandson, who is now 10 years old.  But now, the mother has decided to get involved with raising her son.  She has different ideas about how he should be raised, which had created some anxiety for Patricia.  We’ve known other grandparents who have raised their grandchildren for various reasons. 

 For our return trip, the company had sent us a large van rather than a bus.  So, some of our passenger had to crowd on to other buses.  There was a little delay in our departure while the three tour guides accounted for all of the passengers.  Since Jesse was alone, he sat in one of the single seats in the van.

Sally stayed in bed, and did go back to sleep for possibly the last hour before Jesse returned from his tour at about 1:00 PM.  Sally dressed and went to lunch with him.  We sat by two younger couples (only one person was still working).  Sally had only cranberry juice, green salad, and cappuccino.  (None of the others had wine; one had beer.  It did seem that most people drank a lot of wine on this trip!)  There were very few people on the ship now who started in Amsterdam.  We both took showers this afternoon (Jesse has had at least one more than Sally, but she felt better.  She also happened to find four more NyQuil, which she was “rationing.” That made her feel much better already!  This was the second evening when other couples “beat us” to the table where we’d been sitting with our Philadelphia friends for most of this trip.  (Sally wanted to go early since we didn’t get it last night, but Jesse discouraged her, saying last night was “special,” due to a buffet layout.  But he was wrong!)  We found out for certain tonight that one couple backs Trump, and the other backs Kamala – yet they are close friends.  We gave them our e-mail cards tonight.  Tomorrow was an all-day (9:00 AM to 6:30 PM) shore excursion, but it’s also packing day; we must have our luggage in the hall by 7:00 AM on Wednesday!  Tomorrow is our last dinner on the ship.  Sally was glad to be feeling better tonight than last night!

            Tuesday, 17 Sep 2024 – We ate breakfast on the Viking Lofn soon after 7:00 AN.  From 9:00 AM to 6:30 PM. we had a very long tour of Veliko Tarnovo & Arbanasi, Bulgaria.  The bus took us into one of Bulgaria’s most scenic regions, where we drove from Vidin to the Bilogradchik rocks.  The erosion has made a beautiful countryside.  We saw the Bilogradchik Fortress, built by the Ottomans.  We saw many old, obviously mostly destroyed buildings that have never been repaired and are empty today.  Our tour guide, Teodora (Dori), said that the last owner was supposed to get his property back after the country was liberated.  However, in some cases, the ownership was disputed, and there was much trouble – and the property was just left empty.  We walked along a cobblestone street with souvenir shops, etc., and Sally became very tired.  We finally stopped for lunch at a place that was built like a castle on a hill, with restrooms in another building down a hill (past a pen with peacocks inside).  In the eating area, dancers in traditional costumes entertained us.  Then Jesse toured an ancient merchant’s home, while Sally sat outside.  Afterwards, some of our group went to a church, but we walked back to the restaurant with a few others and waited for them to return.  We finally arrived back at the ship, very tired, and after dinner we had to pack up all of our belongings – with the suitcases outside the door by 7:00 AM.  Although Sally was very tired from the exhausting walking, she had really enjoyed the cruise!


 [JI1]S

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