East London, South Africa

            Monday, 12 Feb 2018 – East London lies on the southeast coast of South Africa, in the Eastern Cape Province.  The city is located on the Indian Ocean coast, between the Buffalo River and the Nahoon River, and is South Africa’s only river port.

Thankfully, our tour was later today.  Although Sally was looking forward to sleeping as late as possible, at about 7:45 the Insignia’s thrusters started making their noise as the ship was steered toward the dock – and that was the end of any sleep.  Those thrusters are loud and clear in the location of our cabin.  After breakfast, we prepared for our day’s tour, meeting in the Insignia Lounge by 10:45 AM.

By 11:00 we had boarded a bus for our 4.75-hour tour to the World Class Inkwenkwezi Game Reserve and soon set off in a northerly direction, traveling past beaches en route to the luxurious, big-five-game reserve.  Unlike yesterday, it was a wonderful day – mostly clear, though with some high clouds that helped keep the temperature down to about 84 degrees.  Our guide on the bus was Sadie; the driver was Isaac, though he pronounced it “E-sack” (in Afrikaans).  This private game reserve is situated within an area of 100 square kilometers encompassing 5 different biomes (vegetation types) which offer varied game viewing.  The reserve is home to the Big Five game:  elephant, lion, buffalo, rhinoceros, and leopard, as well as many other animals both large and small.

When we disembarked the bus and walked toward the restrooms located in a shelter at the park entrance, we were welcomed by traditional Xhosa dancers and singers wearing colorful costumes.  After exiting the shelter, we climbed up into the waiting 4x4 vehicle.

Although we rode in a 4x4 yesterday also, today’s vehicle was different.  Yesterday, we stepped into the vehicle, as with an automobile; it had a canvas top, back, and sides – except there were no windows.  The vehicle was wide, with 25 passengers – two passengers on each side of a center aisle.  When people stood, supposedly to see animals better, they tended to block the view of passengers on the other side of the vehicle.  Today the 4x4 was higher; we had to climb a small ladder on the side in order to board the vehicle.  It had a canvas top and back, but the sides were completely open.  This vehicle could hold a maximum of 10 passengers.  Standing seemed fairly difficult, which helped ensure that everyone had a good view of the surroundings.

Our guide, Carl, has worked at this job for five years and really seems to “know his stuff.”  He told us a lot about the animals that we saw, some information that would be impossible to find without reading a doctoral thesis!

After each of us signed a form (“indemnity”), apparently saying that we would not hold the company or whatever responsible in case of a medical problem, our vehicle set out.  Carl warned us to keep our arms inside the vehicle because it is believed that animals perceive a vehicle as one item, but it is risky to be outside of the vehicle, or to have part of one’s body outside it.

Rhinoceroses at the Entrance

Thus began our drive through South Africa’s wild bush in an open-air vehicle, looking for lions, rhinoceroses, giraffes, or many other indigenous animals.  Right inside the entrance to the park were several rhinoceroses, and a few antelopes.  Next were zebras, then Cape buffalos (or African bovines), and zebras.  We watched a family of giraffes for several minutes.  One very young giraffe was still nursing his mother.  A young, curious male giraffe walked up fairly close to stare at us.

Young Giraffe Nursing

When we stopped to see a termite mound, Carl told us interesting details.  This mound was about five feet high, but most of it is actually underground, Carl explained.  Inside, the temperature is always 27 degrees Celsius (80.6 F), so that the termites stay active.

At last, our 4x4 went through two gates in two rows of fences only a few yards apart – and soon after that, we had a good view of a pride of white lions.  As we watched, one large male strolled slowly by some of the other lions, almost as if he were walking across a stage just for us.  Carl told us that these lions are fed large quantities of meat at intervals of a few days.  No doubt, if they were hungry, these lions would not be so docile!

White Lions in the Bush

                Approximately two and a half hours in the bush provided plenty of opportunities to observe the abundant wildlife.  Sally was thrilled with the experience.  Jesse, who was sitting between Sally and another woman (Kathy), enjoyed conversation throughout the drive.  The only downside of this experience was the horrible rough road, which was little more than a cow path, usually with deep ruts.  Sometimes the passengers were tossed up in the air or from side to side; after the worst jolts, Carl would call out, asking if everyone was okay.  At the end of the drive, Sally’s brain felt scrambled from the bouncing!

            Back at the park entrance, we were offered drinks of soda pop and then boarded our bus to return to the ship.  Arriving in our cabin at 3:25 PM, we were hungry, but the café had closed.  Therefore, we ate our very late lunch at the Waves Grill, located near the swimming pool – and Jesse grossly overate, for the third time on this cruise.

Although we had been discussing swimming after lunch, Jesse didn’t feel like it – and Sally used the time to take a nap.  At 4:00 PM, the Insignia departed from the port for Durban.

We, especially Sally, are trying to keep rested because we had five days in a row (starting with Port Elizabeth) of scheduled shore excursions.  We still have three very busy days left before having an at-sea day to rest up!

Tonight we didn’t dance, and we ate a late, very light dinner.