Salalah, Oman

Friday, 31 Mar 2017 – Since our 4-hour excursion today was set to start at 1:00 PM, we swam in the late morning.  The population in the pool was sparse (many people were already off the ship), and we were able to accomplish some good swimming.

Salalah is a port on the large peninsula that we think of as Saudi Arabia, just east of the Suez Canal.  Because of its location facing south on the Arabian Sea, Salalah has been a shipping center for many years.  Most of the countryside is extremely dry and barren, much like the landscape of Nevada.  Near the port we saw piles of limestone readied for export; the wind from the white stone covered parked cars, which from a distance looked like snow.  However, the temperature was very hot today (and the air conditioning on the bus less efficient than usual).  Now and then, we saw camels, sometimes quite close to the road – at least twice actually blocking the road – seeking water and whatever vegetation they could find.  They moved when our bus driver honked at them.  Our guide told us that people here eat camel meat and rice (mostly rice); they also use camel milk.  In one area, mostly in the mountains, we saw some milk cows and sheep.  Although our bus drove along beautiful Mughsail Beach with almost two miles of white, unspoiled sand, reminiscent of Tampa, FL, we saw no human beings there.  Our guide told us that Omanis don’t like the sun (and it was hot).  High cliffs mark both ends of the beach, and many picnic areas are available.  Salalah exports fish to markets as far away as Europe and Hong Kong.  At one point, he said we were only about one kilometer from Yemen.  This road was new (finished in 1990) and very expensive to build. 

Marneef Cave

At one point near the shore, our bus stopped for a half hour at the Marneef Cave, an area of jagged rocks, where we climbed up stairs and then walked down a slope to a wooden platform near the surf.  There, we watched and waited by a “blow hole,” when water would shoot up through a grating.  When conditions are right, the water can shoot up 10 meters here; however, at this particular time the tide was very low, and the water shot up only one or two meters at most.

Next, our bus drove up into the mountains so that we could visit Job’s tomb.  Although these are only low mountains, they are high enough that the bus had to work extra hard to ascend the steep incline and for ears to pop.  Although Sally put a scarf on her head before entering the small building for the tomb, we noticed that not all women did – and this time none were denied admittance, at least that we saw.  However, everyone was required to remove their shoes to enter.

At the entrance to the area is a plaque which reads (in English, under the Arabic) as follows:

“PROPHET JOB’S TOMB, PEACE BE UPON HIM

“Prophet job’s tomb is located in Beit Zarbij, 27 kilometers from salalah in the mountains.  Beside it is an ancient praying place and footprints embedded in stone.  Nearby is a spring called Sharsate that, according to legend, gushed out after the prophet job prayed to God.

“prophet job’s tomb is 5 metres long and 1.5 metres high.  The Prophet was cited 4 times in the Holy Qur’an, and in the first chapter of the Holy Scriptures of job in the Old Testament.  It is said that his native country was the land of Aouss which, according to the tenth chapter of Genesis, the first book of the Old Testament, was located towards Safar (Dhofar).”

Our guide pointed out the two markers at the head and foot of the long grave, and said that the remains are placed so that the body faces Mecca.  Beside the entrance of the building is a rectangular frame; inside that framework, looking down at the ground, one can see what appears to be a footprint.  According to tradition, this footprint was Job’s.

Job is said to have lived thousands of years ago, long before either Jesus or Mohammed.  In the Bible, Job suffered many trials and tribulations without complaint.  [Some of us might have grown up hearing references to “the patience of Job.”]  Supposedly, this site is a sacred place of pilgrimage for Muslims, Christians, and Jews.  However, as we were walking back to the bus from the tomb, one of the other tourists told Sally that Syria also claims to have Job’s remains.

During the drive, our guide described his personal family, which consists of his grandparents, brothers, etc., for a total of 25 people in the house; they all use the same kitchen.  He also talked about their ruler as like he would of his father; he is 76 years old and has been very generous and good to his people.  Of course, he has a palace, his own beach, etc.  In some of these Arab countries, we saw billboards with pictures of their esteemed (or not) leaders.

After visiting Job’s tomb, our bus drove down the mountain to the city of Salalah, where we saw many palm trees and green grass.  Here, the bus stopped at a Souk (market), where we were given free time to walk among the vendors.  Some stalls sold frankincense and myrh, among other items.  (Spices and perfumes are also sold at many shops in Dubai, and probably in other cities in this area.)  Although we glanced at some of the items displayed for sale, both of us continued walking.  As the bus had parked a short distance away from the Souk near the beach, we and some others strolled to the edge of the beach.  The beautiful, white sand and surf beyond were tempting to Sally, who really wanted to wade in the water.  However, imagining sandy feet in her shoes for the next 45 minutes controlled the urge!

Since it was 5:00 PM when our bus returned to the pier and we had missed lunch, we hurried to change clothes for dinner, even though we were also tired.  By 5:40, we were seated at a dinner table with two couples, one from Minnesota, and the other from Manitoba, Canada.  After visiting several Arab countries, in our conversation we expressed our personal views, which were all similar.  To us, the Muslim culture involving dress code seems more based on custom than religion; since Western dress, particularly for women, was much more restrictive in the 1800’s, the Arab culture could be seen as “stuck” in earlier times.  (In fact, since they have tribal leaders, some of their lifestyle seems reminiscent of medieval times, the “Dark Ages” for us.)  The man from Manitoba mentioned that many Canadians were unhappy when their prime minister said it was acceptable for Muslim women in Canada to wear veils.  As he (and others on this cruise) noted, although Muslims are very firm about others following their customs (such as dress codes) in their countries, most of them don’t want to follow Western customs when in Western countries. The Canadian man also noted that he wouldn’t be allowed to hide his face in Canada!  Yes, Westerners whom we have talked with (from the US, Canada, Australia, the UK, etc.) have found our visits to these countries interesting, but none would like to live in them.