Thursday, April 20, 2017

Disembarkation; Venice, Italy; & Return Home


            Saturday, 15 Apr 2017 – Disembarkation would be at this port tomorrow, but this was a sightseeing day for passengers.  Since we had hoped to take some of our luggage to our room at the Olimpia Hotel, we had attempted to request to do so through official channels.  This involved an e-mail request from the ship to Venice security.  However, no doubt Venice security wouldn’t agree to that but they never even responded; after two e-mail attempts, we gave up.  Following the crowd of exiting passengers, we walked across a big parking lot to the People Mover (elevated train).  Within the next two hours we spoke with one woman and then, later, another woman from the ship (both of whom we had met previously) who had taken one suitcase off each, by just barging their way through; however, the two of us probably would have created more attention than the two single, separate women who managed to pass “under the wire.”

            At the People Mover exit near the edge of the canals, we walked a distance of less than three city blocks to Hotel Olimpia, where we have stayed twice previously in Venice, mainly because of its convenient location.  After checking in at the hotel, we took the tiny elevator up to the fourth floor to our small, very ornate room, decorated in French baroque style.  This room looked newly decorated; no signs of previous usage were visible.  (Of course, it included a bidet, too!)

Today’s goal was to find out how long it would take us to walk from our hotel to the St. Mark’s Basilica in Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) for Easter Mass.  The hotel desk clerk told us that signs marked the way, and that it should take about 20 minutes.  Well, the streets and narrow alleyways were mobbed with crowds of people, often looking in shop windows or whatever.  If the streets would have been empty and we had known exactly where to turn (sometimes, in the absence of arrows pointing the way, we had to guess which direction to walk) – and also, if we could walk at a very fast pace, maybe 20 minutes would have been enough.  As it was, it took us about 1 hour 20 minutes!  Instead of usual large number of pigeons in the Piazza San Marco, the area was filled with people.  Obviously, many families had come to Venice for their Easter break.  By then, exhausted (especially Sally), we decided to return to the pier by “vaporetto” (water bus) instead of walking back.  Since one water bus had just left, we sat down by another couple (also passengers on our ship, from Alberta, Canada) and talked for about 20 minutes until the next one arrived.  After sitting at the dock and then the boat ride, we felt somewhat rested up before walking across a big parking lot, through the terminal, and back to our cabin.

Although we have walked that path (more or less) on previous visits to Venice, this vaporetto ride was a new experience.  As we stepped into the boat from the dock, we looked at the canal at our feet.  At that moment, we both remembered learning that all Venice sewage is dumped directly in the canals – but, no worry – tides come in and out every day and wash out the canals!  Just don’t swim there!  From the vaporetto, we viewed Venice from new perspectives.

Since tonight was packing night, we decided to save time by eating dinner at the buffet instead of the dining room.  By 10:00 PM (the designated time), our bags were in front of our cabin door for pick up; an hour later, we were in bed.

            Sunday, 16 Apr 2017 – Easter Sunday!  Our alarm was set for 6:00 AM.  At breakfast, we said goodbye to two couples who happened to be at the ship’s buffet when we were there.  We managed to be out of our cabin by 8:00 AM (we have become better at meeting this deadline) and found out that we could leave the ship immediately. 

After picking up our luggage, we discovered that they were more difficult to pull than previously.  Although the two large suitcases had been new at the start of this trip, a wheel on one was partly broken off; also, the straps used to tie one suitcase to another were not as good as those had been on our old suitcases.  Finally, Jesse managed to connect the two suitcases by tying their straps together in a knot.  As he pulled three-quarters of the luggage and Sally, the rest, we fumbled our way forward through through the terminal, onto the People mover, and over the canal bridge (which has a lot of steps), one-quarter of it at a time.  In our hotel room, we rested for about 5 minutes, and then walked to the nearest vaporetto stop.  No walking for us to Piazza San Marco this time!  After buying our round-trip tickets (15 Euros each, with the Euro being close in value right now to the $US), we boarded.  We were lucky this time because the boat was already there and loading.  About 45 minutes later, the vaporetto arrived at a point not too far from St. Mark’s Basilica.

             After exiting the boat, we hurried through the crowd as quickly as possible and at about 10:20 AM, we joined the long line to enter St. Mark’s Basilica for Mass.  (Sally went some distance ahead to talk with people, making sure we were in the correct line.)  Mass was scheduled to start at 10:30 AM and, before the door, two security officials gave a quick look at whatever people were carrying.  We entered the Basilica at about 10:35 AM, to find standing room only.  When we had pushed our way forward as much as possible, Sally noticed wooden benches between the large columns and spotted an open space on a bench where she could sit (between two families with children), with her back leaning against the pillar.  Jesse stood nearby.  At first, he couldn’t see the altar, but he could watch proceedings on a TV monitor overhead.  Sally wasn’t even facing the front.

 The Patriarch of Venice, Patriarch Francesco Moraglia, presided over the Mass.  (As Patriarch of Venice, he is not yet a Cardinal, but is allowed to wear non-liturgical vestments in red.)  The homily (sermon) lasted for at least 45 minutes, then the collection basket and communion.  About 99 percent of the proceedings were in Italian, though a few English comments could be heard.  Upon entering the Basilica, we had picked up a copy of the homily, translated into English.  The choir added beautiful music to Mass, even more enjoyable when most of the spoken words were unintelligible to us.



St. Mark's Basilica
            Sally enjoyed studying the scenery, consisting of interior artwork which used gold leaf generously: the 12 apostles encircling the central dome; large angels; and similar art on all visible walls.  The base of the pillar on which Sally was leaning, rises to join another pillar in a large arch; numerous other similar pillars all appear to provide the support of the ceiling.  Even the floor is interesting, with designs made of small tiles.  In the area between the pillars where Sally sat, at her feet was a circle with four animals shown: a donkey, goose, owl, and sheep – all made of tiles.  We followed others up front for Communion; the preference was for the host to be given directly on the tongue, which we followed.  Just after Communion, the crowd in front of Jesse thinned out quite a bit, and Jesse called Sally over for a glimpse of the altar.  (Apparently, many of the attendees exited the Basilica after communion, as they do in the America.)  After Mass, the recessional, including the altar servers, the bishop, and several priests, paraded down one aisle and back up the aisle closest to us; therefore, we had a fairly close view of it.  Mass had lasted almost 2 hours.  Although several signs were posted that photography was not allowed, we saw quite a lot of people taking photos – so Jesse (at Sally’s urging) finally took a few before we left.  In spite of not understanding Italian, it was definitely an awesome experience to remember!

After our trip back to the hotel on the vaporetto, Sally took a long nap in our room.  (She hadn’t slept a lot Saturday night, just thinking about packing, getting our luggage off the ship, etc.)  In the late afternoon, we went downstairs, at first to drink our free glasses of wine promised when we checked in.  Afterward, when we walked outdoors for a few minutes, we saw that the weather had changed from being sunny to light rain.  We walked for a brief time, and heard the 6:00 PM ringing of church bells, typical in European cities.  It had sprinkled now and then yesterday, too.  Therefore, after buying gelato (one of our favorite things to do in Italy), we decided to eat dinner (pasta dishes) in the hotel.  While eating, we could see through the window that it was raining harder and also thundering now and then.  A good night to stay inside!  We were in bed by 10:00 PM.

            Monday, 17 Apr 2017 – In our Venice hotel, we enjoyed a bountiful buffet breakfast of salmon, eggs (scrambled or boiled), bacon, sausage, assorted fruits, cheeses, yogurt, granola cereal, milk, juices, and a drink machine for cappuccino, etc.  We stuffed ourselves, knowing it would be our last good meal for some time.  When we checked out at 11:10 AM, it was a sunshiny day in Venice.

            Although we could have spent a few more hours in Venice before going to the airport, we decided to go directly to the airport.  We had been unable to check in online because we had made our reservations through a third party (Expedia.com).  Also, we had reserved our seats on the last leg of our trip (Chicago to Peoria) on United Airlines, but had been unable to request seat assignments on Turkish Airlines for the first and second legs of our trip home because the website kept “freezing up.”  Sally was really worried that we would not be able to sit together and did not want to make the long trip home separated.

Again, we struggled with our suitcases, pulling them up the canal bridge and back down again in four installments, and made our way to the nearby bus depot, where Jesse bought tickets to go to the Marco Polo Airport.  Since one full bus was about ready to start, we had to stand and wait at the bus stop for the next one, about 20 minutes later.  Even though we were among the first arrivals, by the time we entered the bus door, the seats were mostly taken!  Eventually, Sally was able to squeeze into a tight spot to sit; Jesse stood.  At about 1:45 PM, we started a line at the Turkish Air check-in counter.  At first, the clerks just ignored us; finally, we were called to the counter, but were told that they were only checking in passengers for the flight to Barcelona – and to come back in 2-1/2 hours!  We explained our situation to the clerk, but he said that he couldn’t help us. 

However, just across the way was a Turkish Air “Reservations Desk.”  We then asked there about our seat assignments.  Although it was obviously not her job, the clerk checked our reservations and told us that we had actually managed to confirm our seat assignments on the first leg of the trip (Venice to Istanbul); then she went on to assign us seats on the second leg (Istanbul to Chicago).  The clerk also “checked us in.”   We are very thankful for the helpful clerk!  Also, Sally relaxed at hearing that we had seats together.

            Luckily we found places to sit there at the Marco Polo Airport in Venice (not many seats could be seen).  After sitting there for about 3 hours (2:30 to 5:30), we went back to Turkish Air to check our luggage.  The clerk informed us that the plane to Istanbul was overbooked, and asked us if we would mind taking a later flight; our payment for doing so would be 1,000 Euros.  As we stood there, beginning to get very excited, the clerk returned and said that, since they were unable to make any arrangements with United for our flight from Chicago to Peoria, the offer would have to be withdrawn.  By then, we were a little disappointed to “lose” that 1,000 Euro reward.  Anyway, our luggage was finally checked, we went through security, and then waited at the gate.

            Although our flight from Venice to Istanbul was only 2.5 hours, we were served a light meal: a choice of beef or pasta, tiny salad, orange pudding, roll & butter, plus 3/4 cup water – besides drinks: Jesse got wine, Sally got tomato juice, plus more water.  A man had the aisle seat; we had the window and middle seats.

            At Istanbul, it was sprinkling rain, and we had to walk down outside steps from the plane and board a bus, and then hang onto the sides or an overhead strap.  It was about a 5-minute bus ride to the Istanbul terminal.  By then, it was midnight.  Now, we had to decide what to do next.  Although we had seen online that if one has a long layover in Istanbul (over 10 hours), a hotel room could be requested at no charge.  However, we had never read the small print – which said that we would have to clear customs and immigration, pay $20 each for Turkish visas, and then walk to the Turkish Airlines Hotel Desk to request complimentary overnight accommodations, which would include breakfast and transportation.   After all of that, there was no guarantee that we our request would be approved.  Well, it was midnight, we were tired, and there were risks with leaving the terminal, with the Turkish elections and all; we soon decided that we would just “stick it out” at the airport until our next flight (to Chicago) scheduled to leave at 2:10 PM.  (This was a 14-hour, 45-minute layover!)

            We walked through the area, past a lot of people sleeping on benches, to an area near the other side that was mostly empty.  Although Sally stretched out on the bench, it was cold, hard metal and far from comfortable.  Eventually, we both fell asleep sitting up, leaning against each other – until a man from security came along and told us to move.  Apparently, they wanted to clear out space at that gate to establish a secure area for a specific flight.  We moved, and later started walking around looking for a place for breakfast.  Eventually, we realized that we had been in the “basement” of the terminal and rode up an escalator to the “first” floor.  There we found more comfortable seats and a food court.  However, it appeared that Turks don’t eat breakfast as we know it; there is a Burger King (among other restaurants) in the food court, but none seemed to have breakfast items.

At least, none had breakfast until we saw “The Kitchenette.”  We each ordered cheese & mushroom omelets, orange juice, cappuccino (Sally), American coffee (Jesse), plus a waffle to share.  Although that didn’t sound like too much, it turned out to be a LOT of delicious food!  The omelet filled much of a plate, but also there were some potato cubes, parsley, and grilled tomatoes – all with delicious spices.  Also, oven-fresh bread was brought in a basket.  Although Sally doesn’t normally care for waffles because they’re too dry for her to swallow without a half cup of syrup, the waffle was “out of this world.”  It was cut into four sections, with sliced strawberries, whipped cream, and drizzled chocolate on top!  After the horrible night on the hard airport bench, this was our just reward!

            When we finished breakfast, it was 9:30 AM.  Since we still had to wait until 2:10 PM, we looked at some gates to find a place to sit where there weren’t many people.  All of the seats on this level were much more comfortable than where we had spent the night in the basement.  Although we found a good place, it wasn’t very long before everyone was chased out of that gate.  Then we sat in a less comfortable place in the hall, waiting for the gate number for our flight to be posted.  Outgoing flights were posted in Turkish for about 10 seconds or a little more, then in English – back and forth.  The gate number for the “Sikago” (Chicago) flight was finally posted.  By the time we arrived at the gate, it was almost boarding time, with barely enough time for the three passport checks!  Again, we had to ride in a bus from the gate to the plane, which was quite some distance.

            Sally was happy to see the seating arrangement.  This time we had the aisle and middle seats; another person had the window seat.  Although the flight would be 11 hours 40 minutes long, it would be easy to get up occasionally.  At this point, we were both ready to fall asleep, unusual for Sally, but after the previous nightmarish experience, her eyes kept glazing over.  Jesse kept rousing her, as the server brought wash cloths, then drinks, and finally food.  We finished eating the first dinner about 5:45 PM (Istanbul time); then, about 2-1/2 hours out of Chicago, the second dinner was brought.  For the first meal, we were given a choice of chicken or pasta; we both chose chicken.  The second time we were only asked if we wanted pasta, but it was probably all they had left.  (Both were good.)

            The plane landed in Chicago about 7:00 PM (CDT).  There, we had to go through immigration, pick up and recheck our bags, get boarding passes, go through security, and find our next gate, leaving a relatively short wait at the gate for our flight to Peoria.  That last flight was supposed to be 49 minutes long, but was more like 30 minutes – the time it took for the baggage to be put on the ramp inside the Peoria airport seemed as long as the flight.  However, the 2-hour drive home was terribly long; we were both very sleepy, and Sally drove partway, which doesn’t happen too often anymore.

            At about 12:05 AM we arrived home, utterly exhausted.  After one night spent in an airport and the next night on an airplane, we needed a few days to recuperate – and now we would get them!

Signing off from another GREAT cruise!

Friday, April 14, 2017

Dubrovnik, Croatia


Dubrovnik, Croatia
            Friday, 14 Apr 2017 – Since we had visited Dubrovnik previously (on 9 Dec 2011), we made no plans to take an excursion today.  Our main memory of that previous visit still centers on the tour guide who might have been the world’s worst guide!  Although we remember seeing some exhibits that day from an old monastery, soon we became separated from the group.  Luckily, he had already pointed out the bus we could take back to the pier just in case this would happen, or perhaps he hoped he would lose everyone?  (We met another person who was also left by him, and there might have been more.)  At any rate, we did find our way back to the ship, and that experience spoiled Jesse’s impression of the city.

            Actually, Dubrovnik is a very old city on the Mediterranean that has been invaded or taken over by all of the neighboring powers throughout history.  In the 1300’s, it was already advanced: medical care for all in 1301, the first pharmacy in 1317, an almshouse in 1347, orphanages about that same time, and abolishment of slavery in 1418.  Although we walked for a time in the street nearest the pier, it would have been a 40-minute walk to the “old city,” with more walking there.  Therefore, we didn’t go nearly that far.  In an earthquake, much of the old city had been destroyed and thousands of people had died; however, UNESCO promoted rebuilding to the former appearance of the city, which happened.

Houses are built on the sides of the hill facing the harbor, even where we walked.  One must climb steep stairways in order to reach buildings beyond the first block or so.  Although this was a cool day of about 57 degrees, the sun was warm and some palm trees grow here.  We walked by signs advertising rooms or apartments for rent, cafés, a post office (closed for Good Friday), and a building supply outlet.  Besides our ship in the small harbor, also a ferry and another cruise ship (MSC) nestled nearby.  Sally noticed that vehicle license plates here begin with “DU,” which is close to the familiar “DE” in Europe for Deutschland (Germany).  (License plates in India also signify city, such as “GO” for “Goa.”)  At 4:00 our ship sailed away, heading mostly north toward our last stop, Venice.

Portrait Photo
Since this was the final “Dress Up or Not” night, we decided to dress up and have a portrait photo taken by one of the ship’s photographers.   At dinner we shared a table with an Australian couple who had a few things in common with us.  For one, they sailed once on the Costa Concordia, as we also did.  (The Concordia shipwrecked off the coast of Italy a few years ago.)  Also, they have visited Midwest USA (Chicago).

At Sea


            Thursday, 13 Apr 2017 – This morning we went to breakfast fairly early (for us, for a day at sea); however, the buffet was already full of people, the coffee machines had “BREWING” signs on them, and no coffee cups were left (at first) on the trays.  We sat down across the table from a German couple.  As with many people we have met, this man wanted to talk politics, especially American politics.

            Although this should have been a day of almost total rest, Sally has worried about having to pack differently for our return trip.  After we left for this cruise, the US (and the UK) changed rules about bringing laptops into these countries for people coming from a list of several countries, Turkey being one of them – and we will be flying home from Venice via Istanbul as a layover.  Previously, our laptops were “carry-ons” but now they must be in checked luggage.  Therefore, while our ship sailed from Crete, Greece to Dubrovnik, Sally started some early packing.

            At dinner we sat at a table with two other passengers, both traveling alone.  The woman, who lives in Las Vegas, trains show horses and has traveled all over the world, especially the Arabian countries, where she has sometimes ridden camels.  When she first appeared, bejeweled and wearing a fancy hat and over-sized glasses, we wondered how this dining experience would turn out; however, she was pleasant and it was interesting.

Thursday, April 13, 2017

Iraklion (Crete), Greece


            Wednesday, 12 Apr 2017 – Today we left the pier at 8:15 AM for our 3-hour excursion to “Knossos & the Minotaur.”  The weather threatened to be very cool (59 degrees at 7:30 AM) with dark sky.  Earlier it had been raining, and puddles were scattered about.  The short bus ride passed through the city, with a view of low mountains further away.  Our tour guide, Athena, told us that the highest mountain in Crete is about 7,000 feet high and receives snow every year.

            Before 5,000 years ago, in the Stone Age, Crete witnessed settlement, when the first people are believed to have come from Africa or the Middle East.   

Development of one of the earliest recorded civilizations on earth, the Minoans, took place here.  Knossos was the court of the legendary King Minos, whose wife Pasiphae supposedly gave birth to the Minotaur, half-bull, half-man.  Excavation of Knossos Palace started in the early 1900’s and lasted 35 years.  Although the Minoans had four palaces, only this one has been excavated.

            Our walk through the ruins of Knossos seemed very long because our guide stopped our group many times to tell us about the part that we were then viewing.  Thank goodness for Sally, Jesse was carrying the backpack/stool so that she could sit during these periods that might last 10 minutes or so.  Because other groups were nearby, we couldn’t hear our guide much of the time.  Sometimes birds were also making loud, distracting sounds.  (We later caught view of one of those birds – a beautiful peacock – strutting around the area.)

Knossos
            Without long stops, it is supposed to take about 1.5 hours to walk around the site.  Entering the Great Palace through the West Court, one can easily understand why the legend of the labyrinth grew up here.  Mostly foundations are viewed, but some walls partially exist; however pillars and some artwork (restored) are evident.  Some of the parts that we viewed were the Royal Quarters, the Throne Room, and the Queen’s Quarters whose wall above the entrance door is decorated with a copy of the famous dolphin frescos.

            Either being tired of standing or wanting to take photos where fewer people might be present, a few people began to break away from the group.  Finally we went our own way, too, walking along more quickly through the ruins to the bus.  We returned to the pier by noon.

Aqua Dining Room
            At dinner tonight, we had arranged in advance to sit with our Hong Kong friends in the Aqua Dining Room.  We had first met them at breakfast in the Singapore hotel before we and they started this cruise on 9 March.

At Sea


            Tuesday, 11 Apr 2017 – Today our ship was heading northwest across one corner of the Mediterranean between Israel and Greece.  Although we enjoyed relaxing today, the weather was very cool and rainy, definitely unsuitable for swimming.  Even though BBC’s periodic weather report showed rain for this area, Sally hoped that we would be out of that weather pattern by the next day when we would be in Greece.  At lunch we enjoyed sitting with a couple we’d met before (from Australia, now living in Spain); and then, at dinner we just happened to be seated with them again.  Tonight we danced for about 20 minutes, as we usually have either before or after dinner.  After today, only one at-sea day is left for this cruise; and the only ports remaining are Crete, Greece; Dubrovnik, Croatia; and Venice, where we disembark.

Tuesday, April 11, 2017

Haifa, Israel (2nd Day)


            Monday, 10 Apr 2017 – Again, this was a fairly early morning (6:15 AM) but not as bad as yesterday!  Before 8:15 we were at our meeting place aboard ship; since other longer tours (as to Nazareth) had already departed, our wait was very short.  By 8:30 AM our bus left for a 5-hour tour to “Acre and the Crusaders’ Kingdom.”  Remarkably, we found our tour guide to be Tali, who had been our guide on Sunday.  Wonderful for us!

            Acre (pronounced something like “Ah-krah” and also spelled “Akko”) is not too far up the coast of the Mediterranean from Haifa.  However, before leaving Haifa, we were shown some high points of this city.  A German community had been established here in the 18th century.  Although they left the area in the 20th century to support their fatherland in wartime, their buildings still convey the feeling of being in part of Germany.  From Mt. Carmel, we had a wonderful view of Haifa Bay; the golden dome of Haifa’s Baha’i Shrine; and Acre in the distance.  Although the Baha’i religion’s founder was hanged in Iran, his burial is here in the Baha’i Shrine.

Crusader's Fort
            Acre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site whose history dates back almost 4,000 years, played a pivotal role during the Crusades.  Immediately upon our arrival in Acre, we experienced the decidedly medieval atmosphere of the area as we descended into the headquarters of the Knights of St. John.  Part of this underground city was known as the Hospitaler Quarter because it was here that the knights received their medical care.  Tali led us through a series of barrel-vaulted rooms called the Crusader Halls, which lead to the Refectory (dining hall).  Also referred to as the Crypt, it is a true representation of Crusader architecture.

As we walked through the rooms, plaques told phases of history or purposes of rooms, and often small items uncovered were also on display.   Reproductions of murals were sometimes projected onto the walls.  All of the ruins have not been uncovered; excavation continues. 

Tali continued to speak more of the Crusaders.  Since Sally was familiar with much of the general information about the Crusades, she felt that she could afford to distance herself from Tali to take more photos than Jesse (the usual photographer) seemed interested in taking. 

Sally remembers many details about the Crusades.  Although the Crusaders no doubt believed that their mission was honorable and sacred – that is, to take back Jerusalem from non-believers (Muslims) and return it to Christ, they committed horrible atrocities, murdering thousands of people.  One of the early Popes actually told men who participated in the Crusades that, by murdering infidels, they would be assured of entrance to Heaven!  (Thus, the Crusaders were the “terrorists” of that period and place.)  At that time, Europeans knew less about cleanliness and medicine than did some of the Muslims, so that they appeared to be the more primitive of the two.

After a brief stop at a local shop (with restrooms), Tali asked for a show of hands for those who wanted to tour the old city.  Although seven of the 30 decided not to participate, the other 23 hearty members of our group followed Tali.  Near to the Crypt is a stairway which leads to a long underground passage that is thought to be an escape tunnel that was built by the Crusaders in order to reach the port during attacks by Muslim forces.  As we approached the tunnel, Tali asked if anyone had a problem with claustrophobia.  Although Jesse does have some problem, he told me that, if his “brave wife” would stay beside him, he could manage it.  Although this brought back memories to us of Jesse’s descent down into a pyramid in 2006 (when he had to turn around to walk backward down the steps), at least the Crusader tunnel was on one level, with no stairs (until afterward).  However, Jesse had to double over and nearly crawl because the ceiling was very low, perhaps 4.5 feet from the floor.  Sally believes the height might have been a little less than that because even she had to bend over; before exiting the long tunnel, her back was feeling the pressure of crouching down.

Old City
Returning to the surface, we explored a bit of the Ottoman period of Acre’s long and colorful history.  Walking though the lively marketplace, we saw modern people shopping for the fruit, tempting sweets, and more exotic offerings.  From there, we continued on to the enormous Kahn El Umdan, also referred to as the Pillar’s Inn, an ancient caravanserai, which once served the camel caravans.  Close to the shore where we walked, the scenery was nice and the weather couldn’t have been better.  Tali commented that we were lucky because this day might have been much hotter.  However, after we turned inland and walked several more blocks toward the bus, near the old fort, our tired bodies were eager to sit down again.

Friends from Hong Kong
            At 2:30 PM we arrived back at the ship terminal where we took advantage of the free internet, and re-boarded the ship in time for a late lunch, but too tired to swim.  Sally napped.  After dinner, we ran into our friends from Hong Kong, and decided that we had recovered enough from our day’s excursion to dance to a few songs in the atrium before retiring for the night.

Haifa, Israel


            Sunday, 9 Apr 2017 – This morning our alarm went off at 5:00 AM (by our “new” time after resetting clocks!).  Originally, we were supposed to meet onboard for our tour at 6:30 AM; however, yesterday cruise ship personnel had been notified by Israel that it would be later before passengers could leave the ship; consequently, the time for our meeting had been changed to 6:50 AM.  Even so, longer tours (to Jerusalem and other places) were also starting late.  After passport checks and going through security, we boarded our bus for our 12.5-hour excursion to “Masada & the Dead Sea.”  It was about 7:45 AM before our bus departed.

            Incidentally, most people went to Jerusalem today.  Of course, it was Palm Sunday for Christians and Passover for Jews, which seems like an appropriate time to visit that city.  However, it was announced that the city would be even more crowded than usual, more difficult to get up close to important sites, and more danger of being separated from the group.  In our case, we had visited Jerusalem in 2009 and wanted to see different places on this cruise.

Our tour guide, Tali, speaks English very well.  As we listened to her, we realized that she obviously is very interested in history and archeology.  Tali told us that Israel is 80 percent Jewish and 20 percent Arab; about 20 percent of the Arabs are Christian, and the remainder is Muslim.  In Haifa, we noticed that street signs are usually in three languages: Hebrew, Arabic, and English.  Referring to a map, Tali pointed out the geographical areas of Israel (which is about the size of New Jersey), and described how Israel is situated on two Teutonic plates, so that the country has big earthquakes about every 100 years.  As the bus traveled across the countryside, she pointed out places where Old Testament prophets or leaders (such as Elijah and Gideon) are said to have lived.  Tali talked about the long history of this area, starting with the Bronze Age, which was the time of the Old Testament – and Isaac, Jacob, and Jacob’s twelve sons, and slavery in Egypt…. When we were not too far from the city of Armageddon, she told us that 32 layers of town had been uncovered there.  We passed within about 25 minutes of Nazareth.  In 1947, modern Israel came about, a result of a United Nations mandate, an action that was never approved by the Muslims in Palestine.  At one point, we passed within one kilometer of Jordan; for a while, our road ran parallel to the electronic fence (not electric) between the two countries.  (Tali mentioned that people used to cross over the Israeli border, but now the border is patrolled.) 

Tali told of an interesting conversation she had a few years ago in Arabic with an Arab man.  (We think he was a bus driver.  Our bus driver today was also an Arab.)  Knowing that Jews, Christians, and Muslims all regard Jerusalem as a Holy city, it had puzzled her that nothing in history shows that Mohammed was ever there.  On the other hand, history does show that Jesus was in Jerusalem.  So, why is Jerusalem holy for Muslims?  This man explained that Mohammed was taken into Heaven, where he received the Koran from God; then he was set down in Jerusalem.  Tali decided then that with all religions, there are two kinds of truth: one of the Brain and the other (the Muslim belief) of the Heart.

When the bus came to an intersection where the driver could have turned right to go to Jerusalem (about 20 minutes away then), instead we turned left in the direction of the Jordan valley.

In the distance from our bus was the city of Jericho; this was also the area where, according to Christian tradition, Jesus was tempted for 40 days.  Soon after that, we passed one of the two places famous for baptism in the Jordan River; although several monasteries used to be here, most have been abandoned.  

Our bus gradually descended 3,600 feet toward the Dead Sea – the lowest point on earth.  As we drove along the shores of the pale and still Dead Sea to Qumran, it was difficult to remove our gaze from it, even though the demarcation between the light-colored water and the somewhat hazy sky above it was indistinct.  The Israelis call the Dead Sea, the “Salty Sea.”  At the Qumran Visitor’s Center, our bus stopped, where we could look around and purchase, besides the usual Israeli souvenirs, products containing minerals from the Dead Sea.  If mud from the Dead Sea is plastered on the face, supposedly one can look 20 years younger, said our guide.  (We didn’t try it!)

            As the bus drove down the road, Tali pointed off into the distance to a cave where she said the Dead Sea scrolls had been found.  Although we saw several caves in the side of the mountain, we weren’t certain which one was the cave where the scrolls were found.

            As we passed part of the Dead Sea, there had been a lovely beach and hot springs.  However, Tali said that most of that beach had been swallowed up by sinkholes.  We could see some smaller holes, which looked like sinkholes, not far from the edge of the Dead Sea.  Still, this is an area of natural springs, so that more vegetation is here.

Not long after that, we could see a large, rather flat mountain in the distance, with formations on one side that look like large steps from the distance.  This was the Masada.  At this point, Tali talked about King Herod, who built the Masada.  Of course, probably all Christians have heard how Herod the Great had babies killed after he had heard reports of the birth of Jesus.  This king was crazy, perhaps because he had seven wives, said Tali, presumably joking.  He killed one wife, perhaps his favorite, and then buried her in a tomb at the Masada.  (Tali said that the archeologist who discovered her tomb seven years ago, fell on her grave and broke his neck and died – which might have been related to the evil here.) 

This story of King Herod and later events is complicated and some of these details as heard by us might not be totally correct; however, this is what we remember of Tali’s story:

In 70 AD, thousands of Jews were in hiding and starving.  During this time, many Jews were living in the Masada fort.  However, determined to capture those Jews and condemn them to slavery, a Roman legion camped around the Masada.  Despite the threat, the Jews believed they would be safe because they had water from a cistern and had stocked up three years of food.  However, the Roman soldiers built both a ramp up to the fort and a battery ram; finally, the walls of the Masada were caving in.  When it was obvious that the Jews would be defeated, their leader announced to the others that a decision had to be made: either they would face slavery for themselves and their wives and children, or they end their own lives.  In the end, they decided that death was better than slavery and whatever horrible future might result for their women and children.  Ten men were selected to slay the rest of the people; then, by drawing lots, it was determined that one of them would kill the other nine men, and then only one of them would kill himself (which is forbidden by their religion).  When the Romans finally broke into the fort, all were deceased – except for two women and a few children, who had hidden in a cistern.  Masada is now a national Jewish shrine, world famous for its recognition by UNESCO for its unique structure and history.

Masada Shrine
            The Masada is truly breathtaking, the most spectacular ancient archaeological site in Israel.  Upon arrival, we ascended by cable car to the summit of the mountaintop fortress. The ancient ruins include Herod’s three-tiered palace, the synagogue, the baths, the defending walls, and the water cisterns that still to this day are considered an engineering feat.  The cable car ride was exciting when looking out the sides (especially from the front of the car), but was also extremely crowded.  Two cable cars go up and down, one ascending while the other descends; each is supposed to hold 80 people, but we were packed in “like sardines.”  Walking on top of the mountain was the most challenging part of this excursion; in various places, we had to climb stone stairs, which were irregular in shape and size.  At least at about three places, we were able to sit for a few minutes while listening to Tali talk to us.  Although the sun was bright, there was some breeze at least part of the time.  Someone had told Sally that what she remembered most about the Masada was the heat; however, it could have been worse.  Tali said we had a good day for this.

            After leaving the Masada, our bus driver took us to a new hotel for a buffet lunch.  As usual, we piled too much food on our plates, but it was almost 2:00 PM by that time – a long time since breakfast.  Although Tali warned us that the Jews were already in Passover mode and some of the food might be different, the only difference that we could see was that there was no regular bread.  Everything was delicious, with lots of choices and several kinds of dessert.

This time, we weren’t rushed through our meal.  When we arrived at the hotel/restaurant, Tali said we had two hours for our meal and a dip in the Dead Sea; we just needed to plan our time.  At the tables, on each chair was a plastic bag containing a towel.  Although we asked several people if they intended to go into the water, many said they were not.  (One reason given was that Tali had told us that the water feels oily.)  Sally told them that, after coming this far, she wasn’t going to tell her grandchildren that she didn’t go into the Dead Sea!  (One man retorted, “Lie!”)  Although Jesse wasn’t keen about going in, he finally decided he would.  After changing to swimsuits, we walked out the back door of the hotel almost onto the sandy beach.

The Dead Sea
The Dead Sea is the saltiest sea in the world, making the water very buoyant and making it easy for the body to float.  We wanted to find out how much the water would buoy us up.  Tali had warned everyone not to get the water in our faces because it would hurt.  Although we soon discovered that the water was shallow and so we would probably have to go out quite some distance before it was even waist high, Jesse soon stopped and sat in the water.  Even then, his legs came up right away, so that he almost lost his balance; he had to be careful to keep his balance so that he wouldn’t end up with his face getting wet.  At that point, Sally sat down, too.  Since the water was higher on her, it was scary because the sitting position is difficult to control when one’s legs are being pushed up!  When Jesse saw that there was a black-colored safety bar made of rubber, extending from the water’s edge out into the water, he had sat beside it.  With Jesse holding onto that bar with one hand and holding onto Sally with his other hand, she was able to sit steadily.  Otherwise, how did it feel?  To tender feet, the sand contained some tiny sharp particles in it; and the water did feel greasy to the skin.  However, when we showered afterward, the oily water washed right off.  Although this experience wasn’t exactly a “swim,” it was a unique sensation to float so effortlessly.  With more salt and minerals than any other body of water in the world, the Dead Sea is considered to be a natural health and beauty spa.  For us, it was an adventure.

            After re-boarding our bus, at about 4:45 PM we headed back to Haifa the way we had come, stopping once briefly at a coffee shop, mainly to use the restroom facilities.  This time, sitting on the other side of the bus, we had a little different scenery until it became dark.  We arrived back at the ship terminal about 8:15 PM, but sat at the terminal using free Wi-Fi there for 20 or 30 minutes because getting online from the ship has taken so long recently.  Of course, we still went to the ship’s buffet for soup.

Transit, Suez Canal, Egypt


            Saturday, 8 Apr 2017 – The ship captain announced yesterday that our ship would be entering the Suez Canal at about 4:30 AM, in case anyone wanted to try to see it.  In our case, we were confused by instructions that we should set our clocks forward by one hour – but later realized that we had been given that message 24 hours in advance.  Sally awoke at 5:00 AM and, peering out our cabin window, she could see that we were in the canal.  Every 20 minutes or so after that, she looked again; the scenery would change from some buildings being present, to a security tower and wall, then more sand and bare countryside.  Sometimes there appeared to be an additional lane of water, separated by a peninsula or island. 

After Jesse woke up, we watched some of the “Navigation” channel on TV.  Suddenly, it seemed that we were nearly through the canal because there was a broad expanse of water; Sally counted six ships of various sizes within our view.  Thinking we must have missed seeing most of the canal scenery, we dressed and went to breakfast at the buffet on Deck 12.  After looking around us from both sides of the ship, we returned to our cabin, where Sally napped. 

However, at 11:00, we were obviously still in the canal and finally realized that some lakes along the way provide passage, with the canal connecting them.  Unlike the Panama Canal, the Suez Canal has no locks; our ship just kept moving slowly, not stopping.  A pilot ship was traveling on each side of our ship.  After finally reading our “Freestyle Daily,” we learned more about our day’s adventure:

            “The Suez Canal is an artificial sea-level waterway, connecting the Mediterranean Sea to the Red Sea through the Isthmus of Suez.  It was constructed by the Suez Canal Company between 1859 & 1869.... The canal is 24 meters (79 ft.) deep at its maximum depth.  The width of the canal is 205 meters (673 ft.) and is 120.11 miles (193.30 km) long.  It has 3 lanes with four passing places….”  At about 4:00 PM, our ship left the Suez Canal and entered the Mediterranean Sea, heading toward Israel.

Suez Canal
            After today’s experience we decided that, for this one day, it would have been better if we had a cabin with a balcony, not just a window.  (There was a little more to see on the sides than on our Panama Canal cruise.)  Our Norwegian Cruise Line contact who first assisted us in reserving our cabin told Jesse that we would most likely receive an upgrade to a balcony – but we didn’t.  And for 98 percent of the time, we haven’t missed having a balcony.  Oh, well!

            And Saturday night we did turn our clocks forward one hour – which meant one hour less sleep before our 12.5-hour trip to Masada and the Dead Sea.

Sharm el Sheikh, Egypt


Passenger PIer
            Friday, 7 Apr 2017 – Most of the ship excursions for today offered beach-related activities, and we had decided not to partake in any of them.  Since we (especially Sally) were very tired from our trip to Luxor, we slept late.  Although Jesse wanted to go ashore for a walk after breakfast, we ended up exiting the ship at 11:45, with only a half hour to spare before everyone was supposed to be back onboard.  In fact, while leaving, we were meeting everyone else returning to the ship.  Since Sally didn’t take time to find her hat or sunscreen before leaving, we took only an umbrella along with us to block the sun.  However, the wind proved too strong for an umbrella.  Also, we could see that it was quite a distance to walk to the end of the pier, with nothing much to tempt us to walk further.  Therefore, we stopped and took a photo with low mountains in the background before re-boarding the ship!  [At least, Jesse can now say, “We’ve been to Sharm el Sheikh!”]

Safaga & Luxor, Egypt


            Thursday, 6 Apr 2017 –  The previous night we set our clocks back again by one hour, which was helpful because we were able to sleep a little more before getting ready for our 12-hour tour to the “Iconic Temples of Karnak & Luxor with Luxor Museum.”  Although our ship had docked at Safaga, Egypt by 6:00 AM and we were seated at our meeting place onboard the ship before 7:00 AM, no one was able to exit for Egyptian tours until Egypt granted permission to disembark.  Finally at 8:10 AM, our bus departed for the 3.5-hour bus ride to Luxor – or so we thought.  Actually, after a very short distance, we all got out of the bus at the terminal and, taking our passports with us, we went through a security line.  This stop was puzzling to us because our guide, Gaha, had instructed us to leave belongings on the bus but to take our passports; however, our passports were not checked there and only purses or whatever small items were carried with us were placed on the security belt.  (Passports had been checked before leaving the ship.) 

For at least the first 1.5 hours or more, our driver drove at a high speed on a divided highway through barren mountains in the desert.  For the last part of that time, we began to pass irrigated farmland and people often riding donkeys or on wagons pulled by donkeys.  Then, we turned onto a 2-lane city road that followed a large irrigation canal.  As we drove through some of the city of Qena, donkeys came to be replaced more and more frequently by motorcycles and cars.  As much as possible, our driver sped after a line of busses ahead of us.  However, frequent security check points with speed bumps on the pavement would slow our bus to a virtual stop, after which the driver would speed up again as much as possible.  Through the windshield, Sally watched traffic; our driver passed smaller vehicles, even if to do so, it was necessary to drive in the middle of the road.  Sometimes it was too stressful to watch!  Obviously, time was very important on this trip.

            At 12 noon, we stepped off the bus to visit the Luxor Museum.  Luxor, also known in ancient times as Thebes, is situated on the east bank of the Nile River.  For much of the next hour in the museum, we stayed with our guide.  Although the museum is not very large, it is well organized and interesting.  It houses an amazing collection of ancient artifacts, including much Pharaonic art.  Sally recognized some of the statues and artwork from familiar photos of famous ancient Egyptian art.

            At 1:25 PM our bus took us from the museum to a local hotel for a buffet-style lunch.  Although there was a lot of good food, the line was long and could have been better organized for those not interested in some parts of the meal.  A choice of wine, beer, or soft drinks was provided at no additional cost, besides water, which is unusual.  As it was, we were among the last two people to finish our meal, hurrying to the rest room when our guide told everyone to be on the bus in 7 minutes!

Karnac Temple
            Back on the bus by 2:30 PM, we were taken next to the Karnac Temple.   This temple is comprised of three main temples, smaller enclosed temples, and several outer temples, dedicated to Pharaoh Amun.  The vast complex was built and enlarged over a span of 1,300 years.  Even though we were unable to walk through the entire area, after the amount of walking we did do while baking in the hot sun, we were soon extremely tired.

Luxor Temple
Avenue of the Sphinx
            Re-boarding our bus at 4:00 PM, we were taken to the spectacular Luxor Temple, built during the reign of Amenophis III over 5,000 years ago.  On the walls of the temple, we saw some of the best preserved artwork in Egypt.  We also found a collection of statues and obelisks that date back to the 14th century BC.  The impressive Avenue of the Sphinx links Karnak Temple with Luxor Temple and once stretched two miles.  We viewed the massive statues of Ramses II, the great halls and pylons and the pink granite obelisk of Queen Hatshepsut.  By this time of day, the sun was not beating down as hard on us, making this last (smaller) area easier to cover on foot.  During the time we were there, a mosque adjoining the temple was being used for a Muslim wedding; we could hear calls being made as part of their celebration.  Also on several occasions during our visit, we were approached by workers (or security personnel) dressed in the traditional local attire that attempted to lure us back into secluded areas of the temple to show us more sights – not sure what that was all about, but we didn’t taken any of them up on their offers!

            At 5:00 PM as our bus departed from Luxor Temple, we were provided with snacks and juice.  On the bus, lights were dimmed and many passengers (including Jesse) slept.  Unable to sleep, Sally watched the traffic through the windshield; the temperature display variation from 15 to 21 degrees Celsius (as the air conditioner turned on and off); and the clock.

            Near the pier, crowds of people were enjoying the fresh air, possibly more than usual because it was the evening before the Muslim holy day (Friday).  [Egypt is about 80 percent Muslim, and 20 percent Christian.]  At the end of that 3.5-hour drive, we arrived at the ship at about 8:35 PM.  Quite exhausted, we still visited the buffet for soup before bed.

Aqaba, Jordan


            Wednesday, 5 Apr 2017 – Today, instead of taking the 10-hour tour to Petra, we boarded a bus by 10:00 AM for a 2.25-hour “Panoramic Aqaba” tour.  Although Aqaba is a small port city containing little of interest, our guide, Nadine did the best she could in telling us about it.  Since the city originally had no port on the Red Sea, Jordan traded resources with some of its neighbors in the 1960’s in order to obtain some shoreline.  Now, four countries share this small harbor and, on this particular day, two other passenger ships were also in port.  However, because of the sea traffic of large ships, fisherman must go further away to find fish.

Aqaba Main Port
According to our guide, since Jordan is a small, poor country (with no oil), they “have to be nice” to their neighbors; indeed, since Jordan cannot afford to be in a war, they tend to profit from their neighbors’ wars!  After driving along the beach, at one point our bus turned around to go back the way we had come; we were then 10 kilometers from Saudi Arabia.  Aqaba has hotels for tourists, and many Asians now visit, including more Chinese in recent years.  Many workers are here from Egypt and Iraq and now also Syrians.  Abdullah II rules Jordan.

Although we obtained a glimpse of Aqaba fort, which the Crusaders originally built in the 12th century, we were unable to see it well.  This fort has been rebuilt numerous times, usually following the style of the newest conquerors.

We also passed the remains of what archeologists believe to be the world’s oldest church, a structure dating from the late third century B.C.  (This would precede any Christian church; some research would be required to determine what sort of church this was.)  Looking down into a large hole, foundation stones can be seen that appear to be dividing rooms.

The city itself is more ancient, having been settled about 4,000 BC.  Tradition says that some important Biblical events took place in Jordan, such as Moses and the Burning Bush.

While the bus stopped for the last half hour so that people could shop, we stayed on the air-conditioned bus and chatted with a man that lives in Culver City, CA (but is originally from Chicago).