Thursday, March 12, 2015

2 Days At Sea & Machu Picchu

            On Friday, 06 March, we went to breakfast about 9:30 AM, making us a little late for our 10:00 AM Machu Picchu meet up in the Wheelhouse bar.  We had to stand in the back and also missed some of the instructions about carry-on and personal items, which we later asked the presenter to repeat.  Basically, each passenger would be allowed to bring one standard carry-on and one personal item.  (Backpacks were recommended, but there would be a weight limit.)

While Sally napped, Jesse attended a 12:30 PM Beginning Tango lesson and went for a short swim.  Because the water was very cold, there were very few swimmers; however, the hot tubs were full.  We both attended the 2:30 PM Intermediate/Advanced Tango lesson.  Apparently, there have been Tango lessons earlier on this 49-day cruise (for those who boarded in Florida) because the instructors went through a short review.  Since none of the other participants seemed able to negotiate the steps, we didn’t feel out of place.  We did pick up a few new steps, but if we don’t practice them, they will be quickly forgotten.

Since this was a formal night, we had ordered canapés, which were delivered to our cabin at 4:00 PM; we enjoyed chocolate-covered strawberries and caviar, along with a complimentary drink.  We started dinner around 5:45 PM, this time sharing a table with Nancy and Gary of San Diego, and Maureen and Joe of Long Island, New York.  They all boarded the ship in Fort Lauderdale.  Although Nancy and Gary have been on many cruises, we were surprised to learn that they are booked on the same two back-to-back cruises that we plan to take next August-September.  Maureen retired from teaching only one year ago, and this is their first long cruise.
We had been thinking that we needed to cut our dancing short tonight, in order to pack for our Machu Picchu trip.  However, the other couples at our table straightened us out on this issue; the Machu Picchu trip is not until Sunday.  After dinner, we danced to the Rhumba Duo in the Wheelhouse Bar for 45 minutes, then to the Atomic Band in the Explorer’s Lounge for 30 minutes, before retiring to our cabin for the night.
On Saturday, 07 March, we went to breakfast at 10:15 AM and, afterward, for a swim.  As yesterday, the water in the swimming pool was very cold, but we managed to swim for 20 minutes or so before getting in the hot tub to warm up.  Later, Jesse went to another beginning Tango and a Cha Cha lessons at 12:30 and 1:30 PM in the Club Fusion.  A young woman named Copiah was his dance partner; apparently, her husband is not a dancer and spent the whole time reading at one of the tables.  Later, Sally came also for the 2:30 intermediate/advanced Tango lesson.  The lesson was much too advanced for us (and certainly for most of the other attendees, too) and, since we weren’t learning much, we left early for a light lunch.
            At 5:45 PM we went to dinner, where we joined Lindey and Elaine from Nova Scotia, Canada, and Bob and Alice from Washington state, about 8 miles from the Canadian border.  They have all been on about 10 cruises.  Lindey retired about a year ago, Elaine about 4 years ago, and Bob about 15 years ago.  Lindey and Elaine owned an RV for a couple of years and drove across Canada; Bob and Alice owned an RV for several years.  Although our evening’s discussions were very interesting and we liked both couples a lot, we realize we might never see them again on the ship!  After dinner we danced to the Rhumba Duo for about 30 minutes before returning to our cabin to prepare for our excursion to Machu Picchu.  We sat our clocks back one hour before retiring.

            On Sunday, 08 March, we awoke to our alarm at 5:30 AM and prepared for our 2-day overland excursion to Machu Picchu, Peru.  After breakfast about 6:00, we hurried to meet our tour group in the Michelangelo Dining Room at 7:00 AM, and were given our passports for this trip.  Our tour began with a 20-25 minute bus ride from the San Martin cruise terminal through desert landscape to the Pisco Airport.  Our guide for this portion of our trip was Richard.  When an earthquake blocked roads for a time to Machu Picchu a few years ago, it was determined that about 70 percent of Peru’s economy is dependent on tourism, and more significantly, on Machu Picchu, which is now one of the modern Wonders of the World.

            Arriving at the small Pisco airport, some construction made it necessary for us to pull our carry-on’s for some distance through loose gravel.  Inside, we used restrooms and then stood in a waiting area for at least 20 minutes before showing our passports and receiving seating assignments on the plane.  After that, we waited again in a larger room, but this time there were chairs.  Finally, people were allowed to board a shuttle to the plane, but the shuttle wasn’t big enough to hold everyone and had to return again.  Even then, we took the last available seats in the back; the van had to return a third time for the remaining passengers.

            About 10:00 AM, we boarded our chartered Star Peru Airline (“Entel”) flight to Cusco.  Since there were 3 seats on each side of the aisle and most of the passengers were couples, it was inevitable that some couples were split by the aisle; we were among those.  (“Joined at the hip,” we don’t like to be separated!)  For a snack, passengers were served pineapple juice and a bag of sweet potato chips.

            Our smaller group of 8 passengers had been given a “purple 7” identification tags along with a “brown 8.”  Seven of our group had been on the waiting list for the standard tour.  The 8th passenger was Angela, one of the ship’s crew (she is the “Future Cruise Consultant”) assigned to keep track of the rest of us.  The remainder of the “purple 7” passengers were on the Deluxe tour, while we were on the Standard tour.  The Deluxe tour was more expensive and would visit Machu Picchu twice – first on Sunday afternoon and then again on Monday morning.  (We believed one trip to Machu Picchu would be sufficient!) 

            While on the plane, Sally heard a tour leader telling people shortly before it landed about 11:00 AM that they would have to hurry when disembarking from the plane because the plane was a little late, and the train would be leaving shortly.  Therefore, when Jesse took the time to use the restroom afterward, Sally was very perturbed. 

            However, that instruction about catching the train was intended only for the larger deluxe tour group; our group of 8 soon boarded a 15-passenger van and waited there for about 30 minutes until the remainder of the Standard tour passengers arrived on a second charter plane.  We were then joined by 6 additional passengers.  (All 13 of us had been on the tour wait list.)  Angela, our Princess staff person, rounded out our group to 14.  Our tour guide was Eddie, and our driver was Eduardo.  After about 45 minutes in the van, Eduardo distributed water and box lunches, consisting of a chicken sandwich, salad, roll, candies, and fruit drink; while eating, we started our tour of Cusco, Eddie narrating as the van drove through the narrow streets.

            Cusco was originally the capital of the Inca Empire, then an important Spanish colony.  Now, Cusco is a cosmopolitan city and UNESCO World Heritage Centre filled with interesting sites. Cusco is known as the "archeological capital of the Americas."  Its stately city center is filled with cobblestone streets, colonial churches, and building foundations laid by the Incas more than 500 years ago.  After making a photo stop where restrooms were available, we rode on to the Peru Rail Station. 

            At 3:30 PM, we boarded our train en route to Aguas Calientes and sat across a table from Ross, of Vancouver, and Angela.  Although Ross is cruising with his wife and two other couples, he was the only one of their group that chose to participate in the Machu Picchu excursion.  Still working as a financial advisor, Ross and his business partner cover each other during vacations.  Angela is from the east coast of Canada.  Her parents were in construction and they moved around up and down the coast with construction jobs.  Her mother is currently on the ship with Angela.  We asked Angela a lot of questions about cruising.  She mentioned that she has worked on all but three of the Princess cruise ships (though she seems very young).

            The train followed a roaring river through the "Sacred Valley" of the ancient Incas; the almost constant view of the rapids was very enjoyable.  In addition, the train staff folded out the tables, laid out small, colored placemats, and served snacks.  We each received two small pastries, plus a choice of banana or apple, and a drink (coffee, tea, or juice).

            At 5:00 PM, we arrived at Aguas Calientes.  After a short walk from the train station to the small Casa Andina Hotel, we were in our hotel room by 5:30 PM.
Dinner with Shirley & Andy
            At 6:00 PM, we met for dinner in the hotel’s restaurant, where we shared a table with Andy and Shirley of Toronto, Canada.  Andy’s foreign accent indicated he had been born elsewhere; he said he had emigrated with his parents from Hungary in 1948.  Shirley is of French-Canadian background, but has no accent.  They have been married for 53 years.  Our dinner included Peruvian beer (very good!), but the food was less than spectacular.  The entrée was a small amount of beef (?) with miscellaneous vegetables, a very large mound of white rice, plus French fries!

            Being very tired, we were the first ones to head for our room for the night.  Before we left, Eddie warned us not to drink the water from the faucet, though he said it was okay for brushing teeth.  We enjoyed a nice, long sleep.  (The previous night, Sally had not slept well, knowing we would be meeting early for the trip, and she had been extremely tired all day.)

            On March 9, Eddie had arranged 5:35 AM wakeup calls for everyone.  After a quick breakfast, we checked out of the hotel at 7:00 AM and boarded a shuttle bus to Machu Picchu.  The 30-minute bus ride was very scenic as we followed the very rough, narrow road up the mountain.  With one hairpin turn after another, the busses going up and down the mountain had to manage to pass in safe places.  Although the bus started at the same level as the rumbling Urubamba River, the river was barely visible as our bus climbed higher.  We reached the gate of Machu Picchu by 8:00 AM.
 
Machu Picchu
            Our first view of Machu Picchu, the "Lost City of the Incas," was spectacular.  Eddie guided us on a walking tour through the terraces and aqueducts leading to the Temple of the Three Windows.   He led us up and down steps, sometimes squeezing though narrow openings between stones.  We could see the sun's rays pass through the temple to light the Sacred Plaza and visited the curious stone block believed to be a solar clock.  The Inca retreat is perched between Huayna Picchu (Young Peak) and Machu Picchu (Old Peak).  It hovers two thousand feet above the Urubamba River and contains misty palaces, baths, temples, storage rooms and some 150 houses, all in a remarkable state of preservation.  Carved from the granite of the mountain top, many of the building blocks weigh 50 tons or more, yet are so precisely sculpted and fitted that the mortar-less joints will not permit the insertion of even a thin knife blade.

            The sun was very warm.  Although we were dressed warm, in case it turned cool, we wore hats and brought an umbrella.  Some people wore shorts.  When our little group stopped very long to listen to Eddie (which we did frequently), Sally sat on a small seat (part of Jesse’s backpack).  She could see envious looks from a few of the other women – because we were all getting very tired from the climb.

            At 11:00 we enjoyed a buffet lunch, consisting of a large variety of food, all very good.  We shared a table with Shirley and Russ, and Mary and Leroy.  Mary and Leroy live a few miles east of Los Angeles.  By this time, a dark cloud had appeared, and soon low clouds were hanging low, blocking out some of the spectacular view; even a few raindrops fell.  Although we took ponchos because we had been warned that the weather can change quickly in the mountains, we felt very fortunate to have had clean, crisp air with no clouds for our climb.  Only 400 tourists can visit Machu Picchu per day – 200 in the morning and 200 in the afternoon.  We were lucky to have been part of the morning group.

            After lunch, we stood in a long line, waiting to board a shuttle bus (at 12:15 PM) back down the mountain to the Aguas Calientes train station.  (A few rain drops were falling by then, but Jesse pulled out our umbrella.)  At Aguas Calientes market, we were given about 30 minutes to shop before boarding the train back to Cusco.  While we were waiting to board the train, we conversed with Jenny Joe and Clay from South Georgia, near the Florida state line.  

            On the train ride, we sat with Ross and Angela again, actually in the same seats as we occupied on the ride up the mountain.  This time, the complimentary snacks were thin pastas with cheese and small pieces of vegetables inside, plus 2 strawberries and 3 tiny tomatoes on a long toothpick.  All four at our table chose hot tea for our drink.  We were also entertained by someone in a Peruvian version of a clown suit (it was actually a little scary, with a wig of long red hair and horns on his head, a little like the devil); then we were given a fashion show by the staff – of course they were selling the fashion merchandise.  Both train rides, yesterday and today, were extremely enjoyable and relaxing, the best of the van/plane/train/shuttle transportation of this trip. 

            At the train station, Eduardo was waiting for us; it was 3:00 PM.  We were soon seated in a van, which pulled off at 3:23 for our 2-hour-and-20-minute ride to the Cuzco airport.  For some time, we traveled through the open highlands of Peru, within view of several mountains and glaciers.  (Although it would be a glorious sight to awake to glaciers each morning, we would surely miss some of our modern conveniences!)  By 4:45, we were in rush hour Cuzco traffic; women with their Peruvian hats and brightly colored clothes were shopping in the markets; and dogs roamed loose everywhere, as we had noticed throughout Peru.

            At the Cuzco airport, Eddie took us to our gate, where we bid him farewell.  Eddie had been an excellent leader and very knowledgeable guide.  One by one, we showed our passports and tickets before going to our gate.  Although yesterday’s flight was chartered, this one was commercial: LAN Airlines.  We were told to get in line at the gate, and stood there for about a half hour (though Sally sat on our handy-dandy stool).

            The plane took off for Lima, Peru about 6:55 PM, and we noticed that this plane had a little more leg room than American planes now have.  We were also happy to be seated next to each other this time.  Although Sally was ready for a snack soon, two staffers started serving the row behind us and then went in the opposite direction to the back of the plane; it was 30 minutes later when we received our snacks, which weren’t much: soda crackers, nuts, & chocolate-covered wafer, plus a drink.  The flight lasted exactly one hour.  Airplane passengers exited down outside stairs and boarded an extremely crowded shuttle, with people standing and holding onto poles or hanging onto loops hanging from the ceiling.

            Next, we boarded a 14-passenger bus about 8:30, which left 10 minutes later.  It was a short, 20-minute ride through cosmopolitan Lima (but still with dogs running loose) to our cruise ship. Sally kept reminding herself that nothing here looked familiar because when we had left the Ruby Princess, it was in a different port.  By 9:00 PM we were back in our cabin, then soon at the Horizon Court for a light dinner before retiring for the night.  We were very tired!

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