Sunday, October 22, 2017

En Route Home



Shanghai Airport with Jane
Saturday, 30 Sep 2017 – We set our alarm for 8:00 AM and went to breakfast.  Since several of our group were still eating their breakfast, we said goodbye to them again before returning to our room to finish our packing.  We checked out of the hotel and met Jane in the lobby at 11:00 AM.  We were the only passengers from the Fairmont Peace Hotel on the bus, but we stopped by the Westin Hotel and picked up several other passengers (from another Viking cruise group) before making our way to the airport.  During our ride, we had interesting conversations with two men from the Chicago area who have been friends since high school, Jim and Tom.  Luckily, Jane stayed with us until we were all checked in.  We really didn’t understand what was going on, but one of our bags had been tagged and needed to be opened and inspected.  They didn’t find anything, but Jesse returned to check-in with the bag to get our boarding passes.  (Thanks again, Jane!)  At least five passengers on the plane looking familiar to us:  Jim and Tom from Chicago, Jerry and Sherry from Naperville, and a young lady (about 30 – probably the youngest passenger on the Viking cruise).  Our departure was on time, 3:15 PM.  We were served two meals, a snack, wine, juice, and coffee.  Although Chinese food was sometimes very good in Chinese hotels, the same could not be said for that served on the United Airlines flight from Shanghai to Chicago.  Although the passengers were probably at least half American, Chinese food was served; some of it was tasteless and unidentifiable, and some was very spicy.  None really tasted good.  Sally tried sleeping the entire trip, but except for nodding, Jesse watched movies.  Since Jesse had an aisle seat, we got up several times (unlike on our flight to China, when Sally’s feet swelled a lot); the young man in the window seat only got up once, right before landing.  Our arrival in Chicago was at 3:15 PM Saturday (exactly the same time/day that we left Shanghai!).  We then picked up our vehicle from the Park/Sleep/Fly motel and drove back to Bettendorf, arriving home by 8:30 PM.  Luckily, Jesse was up to the drive back home.  Sally arrived home with a bad chest cold that had worsened from little sleep on the plane.
Although we enjoyed much of this trip, it definitely won’t be remembered as one of our favorites.  Some of our problems we created for ourselves or were caused by sickness.  Yes, we might return to China someday – but no, we will not be returning to Tibet!

Shanghai



Friday, 29 Sep 2017 – This was a very full day.  We got up early for breakfast and met in the lobby at 8:00 AM, when the coach took us to Yu Yuan Garden.  Not a traditional garden, this park had lots of rocks, trees, sculptures, ponds, and buildings.  Originally, this had been a private garden for a single family.  After the garden tour, we were given free time for an Old Shanghai tour (that is, shopping).  Soon we found a place to sit and spent our free time there, within view of our meeting place.  A group of young Chinese women asked to take a photo with Jesse, as well as a young Polish woman.  An elderly man also stopped and talked to us, but we have no idea what he was saying.  He also sang to us.  After our free time, we boarded our coach, which took us to a silk factory where very expensive framed silk needlework, rugs, and furniture were sold.  Several passengers made purchases.  We then rode the escalator up two floors for a Chinese-style lunch, served on a lazy Susan.  Jesse really liked the soup and tried to finish off the bowl, but there was a little too much.  (It’s too bad that he couldn’t bring it home!)  While waiting to leave the mall, we all joked about the large
Shanghai Mall
advertisement on the wall, “Learn to speak big English like an American!”  After a short walk, we boarded our coach for transport to the Shanghai Museum.  The museum was very large and modern with five floors.  Although there was a very long line of visitors waiting to get in, we went to the line for those with reservations and were soon admitted.  The main attraction was on the second floor, which appeared to include mummies; however, since a long line was awaiting admittance, we skipped that floor.  The other floors included Chinese archeology, ancient coins, ethnic clothing, etc.  We returned early to the bus.  Although it should have been very nice sitting outside the bus on some benches, a beggar woman tormented us, really aggravating Sally by getting into her face, so that we soon boarded the bus.  She had been walking around in that area for several hours and seemed healthier than some of our group.  (Jesse wasn’t annoyed by the beggar woman and thought she was entertaining!)  Since we would be attending a Chinese acrobat show later that evening, we had a 5:00 PM dinner at the hotel.  This time, we had chicken and sat with Margie and Alex (from Boulder, CO).  Since they had a very early morning flight, they would not be attending the acrobat show.  After dinner, everyone said goodbye to them.  At 6:30 PM we boarded our bus and rode for 45 minutes to the theater through very heavy traffic.  The show lasted 1.5 hours and included lots of juggling and magic, as well as men and women performing acrobatics.  (Jesse mostly napped.)  The traffic for the ride back to the hotel was much less congested, but we did run into a problem with the local police.  Apparently, the driver needed a permit to drive us through the area nearest the hotel, and he did not have one.  Soon, the hotel’s manager showed up and rescued us.  (Otherwise, the driver would have been ticketed and we would have had a long walk back to the hotel!)  Since our airline departure times varied, we all hugged and said our goodbyes in the hotel lobby.  We finished most of our packing before retiring for the night.
We found Chinese people, even at security points, to be friendly and helpful, and we always felt safe in China.  Since they are already a great power in the world, it is easy to see that in 10 or 20 more years, the U.S. will seem very small in comparison to China.  However, at least at the present, that does not seem a scary future to us.

Yangtze River Cruise & Flight to Shanghai



Friday, 22 Sep 2017 (Continued) – As soon as we landed in Chongqing, it was apparent that everyone in the group was already over most of the effects of the high altitude.  Sally was able to pull her carry-on luggage from the arrival gate to baggage claim, which was quite a distance.  We were then transferred to the Viking Emerald Cruise Ship by coach, which took about an hour through very heavy traffic.  Chongqing is a very large city with a population of 32 million and can be described with 4-h’s:  Hot, Humid, Hazy, and Hilly.  Before exiting the coach, Jane warned us about the “farmers” that would be waiting for us when we unloaded the bus.  They use heavy wooden poles with ropes on each end to carry your luggage.  Once you allow one of them to touch your luggage, you’ll owe them about 40 CNY ($6.00 USD) for carrying it.  We walked quite a distance to the cruise ship, about 50 meters, according to Jane, with our carry-on bags.  Another couple (John and Karen from upper state New York) helped Sally with her luggage, going down a steep incline and then up stairs.
We boarded the Viking Emerald at about 8:45 PM.  Immediately, we met for dinner in the restaurant, where we were served a delicious meal of soup, salmon and vegetables, and cheesecake for dessert - the first meal in several days that our group felt like eating.  Also, the cruise director gave us an overview of the cruise.  During the overview, it was confirmed that China blocks access to Facebook, Google, and blogs (or ours, anyway).  Our cabin was very roomy, with a king-size bed, love seat, desk, and sufficient storage space.  The only thing lacking was a refrigerator.  (Jesse had planned to save three delicious Burger King chicken sandwiches left over from lunch, which we ended up throwing in the trash.)  We both enjoyed a great night of sleep for a change!
Long before this point of our China trip, we realized that we had taken far too much luggage.  We tend to always take the same items (including two laptops), and also over pack even for longer cruises.  This time, two large suitcases, two carry-on bags, and two laptops were ridiculous.  As for our laptops, although we usually go online, this trip afforded little opportunity, and connection was sometimes a problem.
Saturday, 23 Sep 2017 – We went to breakfast at 9:00 AM and ate our fill of oatmeal, blueberries, pancakes, omelets, etc.  Yogurt was made onboard the ship and served in glass containers with fruit (such as blueberries) on top.  Fruit was always plentiful, including a delicious white fruit with tiny black seeds, called “dragon fruit.” (Pitaya is its correct name.)
At 9:30 AM, we stood outside our cabin for the mandatory lifeboat drill.  The life vests were different from those on the ocean liners.  Jackie, who was in the next cabin, helped Jesse with his vest, while the cabin steward assisted Sally.  Sally finished unpacking just in time for lunch, while Jesse napped.  Jesse had been fighting a cold, but had finally lost the battle.  (Many in our group had colds, one frequent effect of high altitude.)  Jesse had two soups and two desserts for lunch; Sally had soup, salad, and ice cream with chocolate sauce.  We sat with Jackie and Domingo (from Virginia Beach), a Scottish couple, and a couple from Vancouver.  That afternoon, we were scheduled to go ashore in Shibaozhai for a walking tour to the Shibaozhai Temple, but we opted to stay onboard so Jesse could finish unpacking.  Besides, neither of us was up to tackling the stairway to visit the 12-story pavilion and adjacent hilltop temple.  Although the air along the Yangtze was very humid and foggy, we had a nice view of the city from our window until another ship parked a few feet from ours.  It was so close that we could easily have climbed over the railing for a visit.  Our new neighbors weren’t very friendly, however, and when we waved to them, they only ignored us.  The air was so damp on the Yangtze that dehumidifiers lined the hallways.  (Although it was wonderful for Sally’s Sjögren’s dryness, the few items that Jesse washed out never completely dried!)  At 7:00 PM, we enjoyed a Chinese-style dinner.  We ordered wonton soup and mango pudding for dessert, and tried several Chinese dishes that had been placed on the table’s lazy Suzan.  At 10:00 PM, we went to Deck 6 and danced to live music for a little while, along with a few other couples.  Due to the late hour and Sally’s being tired, we were back in our cabin by 10:30 PM.
Sunday, 24 Sep 2017 – This day, we would be sailing though the Three Gorges.
Qutang Gorge
  At 7:15 AM, we joined other passengers on Deck 6 to enjoy the spectacular views of the Qutang Gorge and the commentary by the river guide, Elliot.  Then after breakfast, we returned to Deck 6 for the Wu Gorge transit.  This time, we wore much warmer clothing, since we had almost frozen during our first visit to Deck 6.  At 10:15 AM, we disembarked the ship, and after walking quite a distance, we boarded a 20-passenger sampan for a leisurely excursion up a breathtaking Yangtze tributary.  Several rules for visitors were posted on an electronic sign, two of which got our attention:  “No spitting” and “No spitting urine!”  (Sometimes we could see that translation of Chinese to English didn’t come out as intended – this was only one example!)  In sampan #62, we sat near the front.  The boat sailed up a tributary and then turned around and sailed back.  Divided into three groups, passengers were given 8 minutes each to sit in the open area at the rear of the ship.  Sally eagerly took advantage of her 8 minutes, complaining privately to Jesse that her group was shorted time, while Jesse stayed in his inside seat, mostly napping!  At lunch, we enjoyed interesting conversation with Jackie and Domingo, and Michael and Deborah (from Vancouver, Canada).   We napped the rest of the afternoon.  At 7:00 PM, we shared our dinner table with Deborah and Michael, and Jerry and Sherry (from Naperville, IL).  We both ordered soup, filet of sole, and dessert.  Sally also ordered a spinach salad after seeing how delicious it looked.  At 10:00 PM, we went to Deck 6 and danced for a little while before retiring.
Monday, 25 Sep 2017 – We sat our clocks for 6:45 AM, and after breakfast we
Three Gorges Dam
arked and boarded our coach for our Three Gorges Dam shore excursion.  A local guide accompanied us to the dam.  At the welcome center, our guide used a large 3-D floor map to help with her presentation of the history, construction, and operation of the dam.  We then took a series of long escalators to the area located at dam-top level.  After a tour of the area, the guide gave us free time to explore the area on our own.  Sally took every opportunity to sit.  Since we had to walk back down to sea level, the return trip to the welcome center was a little more difficult; at least the slope was all downhill and not very steep.  On our way back to the ship, the coach stopped at a local pharmacy, where several people in our group purchased cold medications.  (Based on previous experiences, we had brought along an adequate supply of cold and other medications for our trip – for everything except high-altitude sickness, which we had not expected.)  By 11:15 AM we were back on board the river boat.  At lunch, we sat with John and Karen, and Rob and Marcia (from the Philadelphia area).  Rob and Marcia had taken high altitude drug in Lhasa, which had been leftover from their trip to Machu Picchu, when they had stayed in a hotel at a high altitude.  Once back in our cabin, we noticed through our window that we had begun our trip through the dam locks.  We had a great view of everything from our balcony, so Jesse watched for the entire 40 minutes or so.  Since Sally did not feel well enough to dance (she had caught Jesse’s cold), we retired after dinner.
Tuesday, 26 Sep 2017 – Although our tour group was scheduled to visit a Viking River Cruises School in Jingzhou, China, Sally did not feel well enough to participate and we opted out.  We hurried to breakfast at 9:00 AM, and were the only guests in the restaurant.  After our usual oatmeal, omelet, etc., we returned to our cabin.  Sally napped until lunch, and then continued to stay in bed all afternoon.  At dinner we sat with Jackie and Domingo, and Orn and Gudlaug (from Iceland), who were celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary.  The staff sang to the anniversary couple and brought them a cake, which we shared.  Again, we skipped the dancing tonight and retired after dinner.
Wednesday, 27 Sep 2017 – Since Sally was still miserable with a cold, we opted out of the tours again.  We ate breakfast a little earlier, 8:45 AM this time, but were still the only guests in the dining room.  On our way to the dining room, we ran into some of our tour group who were disembarking at 9:00 AM for a shore excursion to the Hubei Museum & Bells Performance in Wuhan, China.  Sally slept the rest of the morning.  At lunch, we sat with Jackie and Domingo, and Deborah and Michael.  Although there was a walking tour of Jianham Road at 2:00 PM, we didn’t go.  This is a pedestrian street of shopping for local people.  At dinner, we sat with Don and Susan (from Santa Rosa, CA), and Emmanuel and Danielle (from Jose, CA, but originally from the Czech Republic).  Before retiring, we set our check-in luggage outside our cabin.
Thursday, 28 Sep 2017 - We went to breakfast, finished our packing, disembarked our ship, and boarded our coach at 8:30 AM for transport to the airport.  It was quite a distance to our coach – down several stairs, then up a long incline – all in the rain.  Jane insisted on pulling Sally’s carry-on luggage, but she still arrived at the coach well ahead of us.  Along the way, we stopped at a tower where eight passengers got off for a tour but, of course, we stayed on the coach.  Most of the passengers from our tour group were not seated together on the plane, but Rob traded seats with Jesse (an aisle for a middle seat!) so we could sit together.  (By then, most of the others had noticed that we always sat together!)  Afterwards, however, the man in the aisle seat next to Rob was moved up to first class, so Rob ended up with an aisle seat after all!  We were given a box lunch but, again, we were served lunch during the 1.25 hour flight to Shanghai.  After landing, we were transported to the Fairmont Peace Hotel by coach.  A local guide, “Sha Sha,” joined us on the bus.  She would be with us for both days in Shanghai. The historical hotel was first opened in 1929 and was very elaborate.  At dinner, we sat at tables for eight and enjoyed soup, Australian tenderloin, and dessert. 
All of the hotels where we stayed in China were fairly luxurious, but the Fairmont Peace Hotel in Shanghai would take the prize for luxury.  Here, the large bathroom contained two sinks (though we both used one out of habit!); a deep, old-fashioned bathtub with claw feet; a handicapped equipped shower; a toilet behind a glass door; and a small flat-screen TV over the bathtub.  Various electrical switches were always beside the bed, some of which it took some time for us to figure out.  One usually controlled night lights which lit the floor dimly in the bedroom and bathroom.  Another usually controlled a light on the wall outside the room in the hallway, indicating if service was required replacing the traditional sign hung on the doorknob.  Since most of our stops were in classy hotels or restaurants, or in airports, modern Western toilets were usually available.  Only twice on this trip were Chinese floor toilets the only alternative.

Lhasa & Flight to Chongqing



Wednesday, 20 Sep 2017 – After breakfast, we meandered down to the buffet breakfast.  Since our stomachs felt queasy, we limited our breakfast to fresh fruit, yogurt, coffee, and tea.  We met our tour group in the lobby at 9:30 AM.  We were scheduled to tour the Jokhang Temple, Barkhor Market, and the Sera Monastery; and visit a Tibetan family and enjoy lunch at a local restaurant.  However, just before boarding the coach, Sally realized that her stomach was not in traveling condition; therefore, we opted out of the day’s tours and returned to our room, where Jesse relaxed while Sally lay down, continuing to fight off headache and upset stomach.
For dinner, we took a coach ride to a local restaurant where we had a choice of Chinese or Tibetan cuisine.  We tried the Tibetan yak, barley beer, and a few other dishes, but mostly stuck with the more familiar Chinese.  Tibetans eat a lot of yak, which tastes similar to beef but might be compared to bison.  After dinner, we were entertained with a Tibetan singing and dancing performance.  Our favorite part was the performance of the Yak Dance, when two performers pranced around the audience in a yak costume, causing us all to laugh.  We were back at our hotel by 8:30 PM.
Tibetan Singing & Dancing Performance
Thursday, 21 Sep 2017 – We decided to visit the hotel’s Oxygen Lounge before breakfast.  Several other members of the group had visited the lounge and found the sea-level air pressure relaxing.  After spending 30 minutes there, we continued on to the breakfast buffet.  By about halfway there, the effects of the Oxygen Lounge had already worn off.  We both ate very light breakfasts before returning to our room.  Since by then, Sally was feeling ill again, we opted out of the day’s tours.  Several other members of the group were also experiencing the effects of the high altitude, but none as badly as Sally.  Although Domingo has a heart pace maker and was also having problems, he did not opt out of any of the excursions.  Everyone that we spoke with said they were eager to get back to sea level!  The day’s schedule included a tour of the Potala (Dalai Lama) Palace, lunch at a local restaurant, and a visit to a local Nunnery.  Again, Jesse spent the day relaxing, watching TV, and working on our blog and e-mails; and Sally tried to sleep.  We shared the dinner table in the hotel buffet with three others from our tour group.  None of us had very much of an appetite (effects of the high altitude).
            We believe Sally’s extreme reaction to high altitude might have been caused by her low-normal blood pressure and low red blood cell count.  Much after the fact, she wished that she had consulted a doctor right away (and received meds that might have helped her).  Also, she might have taken a pillow and cover to the Oxygen Room to sleep the night there.  However, at the time, neither her mind nor her body was functioning normally.
Friday, 22 Sep 2017 – After another night of intermittent sleep, we awoke by our alarm in time to place our luggage in the hallway by the 7:00 AM deadline.  Sally was feeling better, but still very weak.  Jane assured us that Sally would feel much better when we reached Chongqing.  Jesse went to the buffet for breakfast and brought back food to the hotel room for Sally.  We boarded our coach at 8:45 AM for the transfer to the Lhasa airport, where we were each given a bag lunch from Burger King and prepared to wait for our 11:30 AM flight to Chongqing.  However, due to military exercises, our flight was delayed until 3:00 PM.  Jane found us all seats in the waiting room; in some cases asking some of the locals to move their bags from empty seats.  It was interesting watching the military aircraft take off and land.  Jane gave each of us another [Chinese] meal while we waited for our flight.  Although our plane left the gate at 3:00 PM, military exercises continued to have priority.  Our plane did not take off until 4:40 PM.  While waiting in line on the tarmac, we were actually served another [Chinese] meal while we waited.  Several passengers declined the meal, since we had already been served two lunches prior to boarding the flight.