Friday, November 28, 2014

Margaret River, Freemantle, and Perth

Thanksgiving and Margaret River

Happy Thanksgiving Day!  On Thursday, 27 November, Jesse awoke at 5:00 AM and downloaded the e-mail; however, he did not return to bed until 7:30 and finally got out of bed at 9:00 AM.  Sally awoke even later.  Since we had slept so late, we had time for only breakfast before boarding a ship’s tender for the 25 km ride to the pier at 11:45.  (Skipping lunch for a change was probably a good thing!)
 
It was raining when we boarded the tender.  When we were landing at the pier, a crew member lifted an overhead awning and nearly drenched us.  We were saved by being only a few inches from the small downpour.  Since everyone had arrived at the pier early for this excursion, we were allowed to board our coach and start our tour 30 minutes early, at 12:30 PM.  Since only one other couple boarded the coach after us, we had a choice of two sets of seats.  This time the tour guide doubled as the coach driver, as he narrated the highlights of Busselton and navigated the small town and countryside streets and roads.
Palmer's Wine Vineyard
Our coach followed the beautiful 18-mile coastline of Geographe Bay to the seaside town of Dunsborough, where we stopped at Palmer Wines for a taste of their award-winning vintages.  Palmer Wines is set in idyllic surrounding, with a small vineyard on the grounds.  Once inside the tasting room, we sipped and savored various wines, and were given an opportunity to purchase any that we liked at a significant “Princess” discount.  (We didn’t buy any.)
Canal Rocks
More Canal Rocks
Back on the coach, we continued along Geographe Bay and made a photo stop at Canal Rocks, a natural phenomenon 700 million years in the making.  These ancient and unusual rock formations of orange-colored granite jut into the ocean and are separated by a series of canals that have been hollowed out by the pounding sea.  We marveled at the ocean's beauty and power from the short boardwalk and bridge that traverse the canals.   At one point, the waves created small, quickly terminated, waterfalls over the rocks.  We were told that there had been many drownings in that area caused by the tides.

Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse
Our coach continued towards the famed Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse, which marks the northern tip of Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park.   Activated in 1904, the 66-foot-tall cylindrical tower was built from limestone quarried from nearby Bunker Bay.  Peering out over Geographe Bay at 403-feet above sea level, the lighthouse boasts superb views of the stunning coastline, the Indian Ocean and Margaret River Wine Region.  (It was not open for entry.)
 
En route to our final stop at the town of Dunsborough, we journeyed past the magnificent surf beaches and quiet coves that sit on the southwest side of the Cape.   As we inched closer to Dunsborough, our coach meandered its way past vineyards, breweries and through the town of Yallingup.  An Aboriginal word meaning "Place of Love," Yallingup is famous as the location of Ngilgi Cave, a revered Aboriginal site and popular tourist attraction.
 
Dunsborough is the northernmost town in Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, an area of rugged limestone sea cliffs and windswept granite headlands that stretches to the southern shores of Cape Leeuwin.  Perched on the picturesque Geographe Bay, Dunsborough was first known as a whaling station over a century ago; today, the town offers plenty of chic boutiques, beautiful beaches and relaxed eateries.  For a short time, we walked in a small shopping area, where we passed a realty office.  In the window were photos of homes with magnificent views on sale for a bargain price of perhaps “only” one-half million Australian dollars – and several for more than that.

 We recognized the couple seated behind us on the coach, from the dance floor – Kevin and Martha from Brisbane.  Actually, they hadn’t been dancing for a few days because Martha somehow managed to injure her back.
On Princess Tender
When we arrived at the pier, we boarded one of the tenders for our ride back to the ship, and were back in our cabin by about 5:35 PM.  Having missed lunch, we quickly dressed for dinner and headed for the Savoy Dining room.

During dinner, we conversed with Mylene and Vivian from Tasmania.  They were the first couple that we’ve met thus far who actually lives in Tasmania.  We laughed when Vivian said he had a “girl’s” name.  I asked him if he had a story similar to the “boy named Sue,” in the country western song.  They shared a lot of information about the Aborigines.  In Tasmania there are almost no Aborigines because the authorities rounded them up and shot them dead during the early days of settlement.  This was not a proud moment in Tasmanian history, but it is only one of the many horror stories that we’ve heard about mistreatment of the Aborigines.  The only “pure” Tasmanian Aborigine passed away a few years ago at the age of 103.  Today, there seems to be more respect for Aboriginal culture and religious beliefs, but the few who are left still suffer from wide-spread discrimination.
 
Since we finished dinner at 7:45 PM and dancing was not scheduled to start until 8:45 PM, we returned to our cabin for a little while before going to the Wheelhouse Bar.  There we sat with Paul and Mary and danced until 9:45 PM before retiring for the night. 

Freemantle and Perth
 
On Friday, 28 November, Jesse awoke about 6:00, downloaded e-mail, and returned to bed at 7:00.  After breakfast at lounging for a while in our cabin, we left the ship for our tour meet up point on the pier at 11:45 AM.  There, we ran into Bob from Auckland, who was on the same tour.  His wife, Linda, was not with him.  She had taken a fall while disembarking the ship in Albany.  Although she was afraid that she might have damaged her artificial hip during the fall, X-rays did not indicate any problems; however, she was still on heavy pain medication and was unable to participate in the excursion.

Diane, our tour guide, narrated the tour as our driver, Brendon, drove us through the streets of Fremantle and Perth.  The drive took us through historic Fremantle past Fremantle Prison and the Round House, both built in the early 1800's to house prisoners.  At one point, 10,000 prisoners were in Fremantle Prison!  We traveled along the Esplanade en route to Perth, the capital of Western Australia, the largest state in Australia.  It comprises one-third of the continent, land wise, but only eleven percent of Australia’s population.  Founded in 1829 and located alongside Swan River, Perth has a Mediterranean climate, the best of any other Australian city, and a population that is only one-third that of the major eastern cities.  We journeyed through the exclusive suburbs of Mossman Park, Peppermint Grove, Dalkeith and Millionaires Row, where the homes of the rich and famous overlook the river.   We drove past Matilda Bay, the restored Swan Brewery and the historic Royal Perth Yacht Club (once home to the America's Cup).  Housing in this area is very expensive.  Our tour guide, Diane, mentioned that she and her husband had just recently sold their house for two million dollars!
 
We disembarked the coach and visited King's Park, Perth's premiere park which occupies 1,000 acres along the Swan River.  Stunningly beautiful, it features a combination of cultivated botanical gardens and wild, native bush that is home to 319 species of native plants and over 80 species of birds.  We enjoyed free time to explore the grounds of this breathtaking park.  We saw Gija Jumulu, a mighty baobab tree said to be 750 years old!  (Amazingly, it was transplanted from another location only about two years ago and survives!  Although it looked dead to us, our guide told us that it loses its leaves after the dry season – and the leaves will grow back.)  We also learned the identity of the pine trees that look so different from American pines, with long needles that grow straight up; they are Nordic pines.  Also, the common trees with lavender blossoms that beautify many streets in Australia are called jacaranda trees.


Perch Skyline
Gija Jumulu Baobab Tree



Next, we made a photo stop at Cottlesloe Beach with beautiful white sand and azure water.  While admiring this beach, Mylene (from Tasmania, whom we talked with at dinner last night) told us how children in beach areas are taught water safety at an early age because of beaches with drop-offs and dangerous currents.  She and her husband had grown up with this skill, and her husband taught others for many years.
 
At 4:30 PM, we re-boarded the ship and went immediately to the Horizon Court for a late lunch (soup and salad) before relaxing for a time before dinner.

At dinner, we sat next to Peter and Denise from Brisbane; they had only boarded the ship today.  We discussed our travels and future travel plans.  Later, we were joined on the other side by David and Lynn, from Melbourne, whom we had met previously.  We conversed with them until it was time for dancing to start.  In the Wheelhouse Bar, we sat with Paul and Mary again, and danced to the Soul Wave until their break at 9:45 PM before retiring for the night.

No comments:

Post a Comment